1975 Z1B - back on the road... hopefully!

Just joined the forum with my recent acquisition of a 1975 Z1B. Father-in-law gave it to me so starting cost is literally $0. Hope to get it back on the road with a minimum of funds.

After posting in the new members' section, I've come to realize this bike can be worth quite a bit in good shape. Hopefully, I can get it back in decent condition and end up with an enjoyable bike to ride. If it happens to be worth a few $$$, that would be a nice bonus.

Here's the starting point. Bike was running (though not perfectly) when parked 8 years ago. Never was ridden regularly in our family, don't know about previous owners. 18,XXX miles, a LePera seat, and 4 into 1 exhaust. Paint is in less-than-stellar condition, some oxidization on the engine, chrome in decent shape.

I'll post a few photos of initial condition, and later post new pics as things improve.

Looks darn good for $0! As far as paint, you may be able to save the original if the base paint is in good condition. I have seen members here re-clear coat original paint with beautiful results. Will save you money as well. As far as the the engine is concerned. Here is a good topic on what to use to clean aluminum or chrome:

www.kzrider.com/forum/6-paint-a-bodywork...-for-aluminum#468808

But before starting on the cosmetics, you should go through the bike and get it running and address any mechanical issues. Take some precautions when doing the first start like squirting some mystery oil in each cylinder and first using the kick starter with your hand to make sure nothing is frozen from it sitting. Afterwards, you should check the carbs and the fuel tank for gunk and debris. But I am barely touching upon all these things. Search this forum for proper first start prepping and maintenance threads. Don't rush and try to enjoy each step. Take lots of pictures to post. We love pictures.

Joe

Search: Soda Blaster. To clean up your engine, then you can follow that up with some Mothers polish if you want.

My tank did the exact same thing when we took it out of storage. I was able to sand off the original clear, mask off the original lines then repainted the blue (in my case) and black lines.

Here's my shoestring budget build: z1ownersclub.com/topic/3666295/1/

As far as the running condition. Clean and inspect all the electrical connectors and apply some dielectric grease to them, clean and rebuild the carbs, do a tune up and replace the points, reset the cam chain tensioner.

Thanks for the tips. Have already ordered and received new air filter, points/condensers, and spark plugs. Planning to pull the carbs tonight for cleaning.

I figure I'll check the valve clearances and squirt some oil around up there before I try to start it. Bike did run when parked, but that was long ago.

Definitely planning to get it running before I start in on the aesthetics. I'll try to post as I go. Having a new baby (4th 4 and under) in 2 weeks, so anything I don't get done soon will probably be waiting a while. Ideally, I'll get the bike fired up before the kid arrives Feb. 3rd (c-section), but we'll see...

Check the vavle clearances after you get it running. There can be rust and who knows what gunked up on them.
Youll be able to spend thousands gettting this bike back on the road and you wont loose a dime when you sell it.
Nice bike!

hey LukeMacPU, verry nice bike, i really like those real "Barn-finds"...and an original paint is the best you can get,,, i hope you can "rescue" the old painting...!!
I have also an old Z1B from `75, it´s one of my alltime favorites ever!
long live the Z1 !!!

Good looking bike there Joe. I don't know that mine will ever get that nice.

Cleaned my carbs on the inside, replaced the plugs, changed out my points/condensers. Pulled the plugged petcock from the tank, disassembled, and re-installed in working order. Flushed the tank while I was at it. Pulled the camshaft cover off. All looked very clean and still wet with oil.

Any tips on getting the old battery out? Mine looks like it's swollen and wedged in there pretty tight. May be frozen? Hopefully, when it warms up a bit, I can get the lousy thing out.

Need to get some fresh fuel line, fuel, and oil and see whether or not the ol' girl will fire...

Will the bike run with a bad battery if I kick start, or do I need to replace first?

Luke,
yes, your battery is "swollen", cause it is totally collapsed,...must pull it out very carefully, dont destroy the plastic-housing!! take care with that acid!!!! NEVER try to start emgine by kickstart with that kind of collapsed battery,...it is sometimes happened that the battery has had a bolted short circuit, ...the result was an exploded battery...
so, invest a little for a new batt., and, if engine will turn EASY by hand-moved kickstarter, cleaned carbs, petcock, tank and lines, you can try carefully a start....my tipp: let the engine start ( meant turn by starter-motor) without any wire on the plugs for a few seconds, will say,3 -times about 10 seconds, to be sure, that the oil is coming to all bearing- points it will be needed.( oil-pressure light will be go dark)
than, after that, you may restart the engine with all plugs on fire...GOOD LUCK,..and be carefully with the throttle after engine will fire first time....let the engine easy warm up...NO excessive full throttle games !!!!
ENJOY YOUR NEW BIKE !!!!

Well, put in a little more time today. New fuel lines to carbs, old battery removed, tank re-installed, finishing up setting points, changed oil.

Added some fuel to the tank and turned the petcock. Good news, fuel to all carbs and no overflow from the bowls. Bad news, it appears to be leaking fuel from the T fitting that attaches to the fuel line on both sides. Are there seals here I should have replaced when I had everything apart? Do I get to remove things all over again? Any chance (and I doubt there is) that these seals are just dried out and will get better on their own?

Thanks again for all the information. Trying to get to that first start-up. Battery is on order, so I'm on hold, but should probably resolve my leaking fuel issue first too.

That's called a fuel joint pipe. If its anything like the VM26, its a metal tee coated completely with rubber. Can't just replace any seals, you have to buy the whole tee. Here are ones from Z1 Enterprises fuel joint pipe

Fuel leak not leaking this morning when I checked... I was trying to be sure it was the fuel joint pipe, not leaky bowl gaskets and it didn't leak at all this morning.

I'm sure it'll be back.

If the fuel joints can turn or be indexed without resistance or they feel like they are just flopping around its time to change them. Very common and new ones cost about $40 plus the shipping. I dont believe in "swelling" because the rubber that is formed around the joints also cracks, just replace them.