1982 kz1100 shaft

bearshawk wrote: i have done this test and the results were about 10.xx volts and the battery was 12. something... i am loosing 2 volts somewhere and i havent been able to find it yet

i just snapped this pic this is on the rear of the battery box, right in front of the rear mudflap... red wire is just snipped off, is this normal?

No Not Normal. But it does not look like a factory wire either.

would this be my RR? i cant find it in the wiring diagram otherwise... and i dont know where the other end of the wire is!

In the picture, the metal Fined object with the Yellow wires, that is the Rectifier. This turns the AC volts made by the alternator in to DC volts for your battery and electrical. The Red wire from the picture, I can't be sure. But you can take the Red Probe from your meter, set to DCV and put the Red probe in the wire, and the Black Probe on Ground. Then see if it is HOT, assuming your battery is connected and charged. Also could try with Key On.

a better picture, its just a bolt with a random wire... this is not factory?

I see a small length of Red wire, no Bolt. Red wire should only be used for the Positive connections and not the Negative. So if the wire goes under a bolt, it was a mistake, unless it is at the Battery Positive terminal, or possibly the Starter Solenoid Post, which is where the Battery Cable Runs To.

im starting to think the PO didnt tell me about something... like a small engine fire??

the coil is melted, but still reads 3.3 ohms and the three connectors under the tank are melted together and i cant get them apart...

opps, here is the better pic of the RR

That Red wire was coming out of the Regulator Rectifier Combo assy. It looks like it was a Red wire with a Ground Lug to that bolt holding on the R/R assy. Can't see where the three connectors are melted, but the coil is Fubar.

Time for a new rectifier/regulator, and possibly a new ignition coil(s)(replace them as a set).

www.electrosport.com makes rectifier/regulator replacements, www.z1enterprises.com sells the Emgo ignition coils along with the popular 2.2 ohm Grey and 3.0 Green Dyna ignition coils.

so you think that my RR is fried? i have multiple RR's but they are from 650 and 750 motors will these work or are they TOTALLY different? i have ordered a new RT side coil and the left doesnt look to have any damage but who knows i might just do a whole replacement coils, wires, and RR... DAMN

is there a way to test the RR? i would rather make sure i need a new one before i spend 100 bucks.

bearshawk wrote: ok guys, i shot some starting fluid directly into the carbs with the box off and she didnt fire up, this has GOT to be spark related....

Likely to relate to either quality of the spark or timing of the spark.

See the pic below for some check points to help determine where voltage may be dropping between the battery and ignition coils.

Good Fortune!