1982 kz1100 shaft

also, is the manual in your signature the correct manual or are the engine so similar it works for mine? i have an 82 A series 1100 and i couldnt find that in the manual

Most of the components are Identical, as far as the Ignition they are exactly the same.

ok guys, i shot some starting fluid directly into the carbs with the box off and she didnt fire up, this has GOT to be spark related. i might just spring and get a whole new set of dyna coils and wires. i just really wanna hear this thing run!

ok guys i did a bit of playing around today, i noticed that there is some cracking on the coils... doesnt look good for them however, i put the DYNA coils on my 650 build and this mounting is TOTALLY different... can anyone that has done the dyna coils chime in and tell me how it works?

also i unplugged the RT hand switch connector just to check it out and here is what i found...


is this causing me some issues?

in case you cant tell very well there is only 3 pins here...

How many wires going to the electrical connector? There should be the same number of wires as pins(unless there's an internal jumper, but I doubt it).

damn only 3 wires... i got excited thinking it may be a problem i can fix...

When doing voltage checks to the ignition coils, do the following:
1.Remove the fuel tank.
2.Set the multimeter to VDC(Volts, Direct Current).
3.Range of 20.
4.Turn the ignition key to the "on position".
5.run/stop switch(right handlebar) to "run".
6.Put the Black probe on either the Negative battery post, or a good frame ground location.
7.Put the Red probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the igniton coils.
8.If all the related electrical circuits are working, you should have battery voltage at these measurment places.
9. If no voltage, start by opening up the right handlebar switch pod, looking for failed solder joints, or corroded/dirty contacts.
10. A very good electrical contact cleaner preservative is "De-Oxit" www.deoxit.com is their website.

i have done this test and the results were about 10.xx volts and the battery was 12. something... i am loosing 2 volts somewhere and i havent been able to find it yet



i just snapped this pic this is on the rear of the battery box, right in front of the rear mudflap... red wire is just snipped off, is this normal?

When doing resistance or "Ohm" checking, make sure there is no voltage on the circuit being tested, as the meter will be using an internal battery and can be damaged/destroyed by external voltage.

Let's say you want to ohm check the ignition coils, most coils are low in resistance, so 3 ohms is what you need to see on the meter's display.

I'll use a Digital meter as an example here.

Turn the selection handle/selector switch to "Ohms",It looks the symbol "Omega"(or an upside down horseshoe) and range of 200(or the lowest range your meter will go).

Disconnect any wiring on the primary(small wires)side of the ignition coil as they may affect the reading, put the probes across the ignition coils connections, the Red on one of them and the Black on the other.

If the ignition coil is electrically good, you will see the resistance in ohms on the display.

Without having a wiring diagram for your bike I can't say what that red wire does.Have you been in this websites "Filebase" and located the wiring diagram? It will make troubleshooting a lot easier.

i have the manual downloaded to my computer. but am pretty horrible at reading them...