'81 650 Project

ShouterVW wrote: Okay I got the carbs reassembled. Checked and adjusted the float height, and threw them back on....

If not already done, the clear tube test is necessary to verify that the fuel levels are within spec.

The clear tube test shows the true actual fuel level, which is referred to in the factory manuals as the "service" fuel level.

Good Fortune!

I've done the float height test, all tested good.

Not too much happening lately, but a lot will happen soon! I just bought a MAC 4 into 1 exhaust, and will be making a big order from Z1 here tonight or tomorrow. Bunch of random parts I need for the bike to be ride ready.

What would everyone here recommend for a front tire that's not going to break the bank?

Current Picture

Big order today. Ordered Mac 4into1, 250 bucks of parts from z1, and a front tire from jpcycles. Finally done with college, got a good job, it's about damn time this thing gets on the road!
Stock exhaust was in poor poor shape.


All ready for new parts.

keep up the good work :evil: .

leon

Thanks! I'll be receiving my exhaust and tire tomorrow, And my z1 order on Friday. This weekend will be a busy one!

By the time you are done you'll be able to take the whole bike apart and put it back together in your sleep after you've had to strip it down so many times.

I think I can do that already.

I'm to the point where I am going to bring it into a shop to get tuned. I can't seem to get it running consistently well.

After letting the bike sit all last summer, and last winter. Let's give it a go once again. I have my carbs torn apart, and this time I have ultrasonic cleaned them. Wow, why didn't I do this in the first place? I found I have a bent jet needle in the #2 carb, and they are keyster replacements. I think I have the originals still, and I am going to ultrasonic clean them and use the originals.

The carbs look great after ultrasonic cleaning!

Oh, I also got the tank painted!

I have a few questions.

I am running stock airbox, and a MAC 4into1 exhaust. What jetting should I use? Would stock jetting be okay?

Would the coil mod be a good thing to do at this point?

What size O-ring goes on the emulsifier tube for the main jet?

Main-jet/bleeder-pipe o-ring = 4.8mm ID x 1.9mm (from HarborFreight metric o-ring kit)
The same size is listed in a Mikuni carb o-ring kit at Z1Enterprises.com.

Some say the coil relay mod is a band aid approach to getting sufficient power to the coils --- instead of checking & cleaning the various connections.

I don't know what jet sizes you should use w the stock airbox & 4-1 exhaust. The bike was jetted lean from the factory, so if it flows more air, you may have to go up 1 or 2 sizes (?).

Comparison request. Could you compare the stock needles to the Keysters? I'd be curious to know if the taper is the same. It is often reported that some aftermarket needles don't match the stock taper... which may not be a good thing.

Thanks martin. I will compare the 2 needles tomorrow and post some pictures up.

What did you do about the accelerator pump check valve o rings? The only ones I have found are 5 dollars each that are the correct size.

Pump nozzle o-ring = 2.8mm ID x 1.9mm (from HarborFreight metric o-ring kit)
The HF o-rings may not be a perfect match to stock, but they have worked fine.
Z1Enterprises has 2 sizes: 2.4mm x 1.6mm or 2.7mm x 2.0mm.
Z1Ent sells the carb o-rings separately for approx. 35 cents each.
Some auto parts stores sell individual o-rings from a kit similar to the HF kit.