KZ900/KZ1000 modified almost complete!

Mark1122,

The back wheel is .020” within the front wheel.

The way he did it was to put the bike on his left clamp the front in he already had a center line running down the length of the lift, so he used a laser line to center the frame with the line on the lift and clamped everything tight. Then he took the rear wheel, cal bracket, sprocket, and axle off, removed the temporary spacers I had on it and put it back together without spacers. Once he had it back together he centered the wheel on the line locked it down with two square tube clamps and started taking measurements for the permanent spacers. Then he put a long thin straight bar against the front drive sprocket housing and measured how much he needed to take off the rear sprocket carrier.

I’m not sure of the exact measurement but I’ll try to find out and post it later. I also don’t know where he came up with the 3/8th offset 530 front sprocket, but I’ll try to find out.

right side

Thats interesting. most guys end up with a 1/2" or 5/8" offset. i think some of the variance has to do with the factory mounting of the steering stem. i understand that they can be off-center a fare bit from the get go.
I love the GREEN. i have been thinking of that color myself. nice to see it in its full glory.

:huh: I don’t know about the steering stem, all I know is when Robby worked his magic on the alignment of the wheels and the chain, everything works. I’ve owned other bikes and I like the way this one feels the best, of course that might be because I’ve put so much of my own ideas and labor into this one.

I posted this in the carb forum but I thought I might get some more opinions here as well.

I hope someone can help me, I have a 1978 KZ1000 that has a 1075 kit in it and a set of Mikuni VM29's on it. The jets are: 20 pilot jets and 120 main jets. The needles are in the third notch or the middle. I've had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned.

The problem I'm having is that when the bike is cold it spits and misfires for about 2 to 3 miles then seems to calm down and runs fairly smooth, but if I come to a stop sign I have to bump the throttle to get the idle to drop from about 2200rpm to 1500rpm.

I need to know if I should replace all the soft parts and the needles, jets, floats, ect., or if I might just need more adjusting?

I've tried to set the air mixture screws at a 1/4 turn but it pops and sputters even more as I apply gas becoming less noticeable the higher the gear. So I have the air mixture screws set at one full turn out right now.

Thanks for the help,
Dirk

ps: This is the bike when I started.

the symptoms u describe, say she'e running lean. those have fuel screws dont they(out means more fuel)? try the fuel screws out farther. or try raising the needle 1 notch.
most likely it is the pilot system giving u the trouble though. so the fuel screws should be enough. if u get them out to 2.5 turns or more,and it runs better, u should go up 1 size on the pilots.
hope this helpsB)

hey that looks like a KZ900...nice...classic superbike....too bad



TexasKZ900 wrote:

I posted this in the carb forum but I thought I might get some more opinions here as well.

I hope someone can help me, I have a 1978 KZ1000 that has a 1075 kit in it and a set of Mikuni VM29's on it. The jets are: 20 pilot jets and 120 main jets. The needles are in the third notch or the middle. I've had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned.

The problem I'm having is that when the bike is cold it spits and misfires for about 2 to 3 miles then seems to calm down and runs fairly smooth, but if I come to a stop sign I have to bump the throttle to get the idle to drop from about 2200rpm to 1500rpm.

I need to know if I should replace all the soft parts and the needles, jets, floats, ect., or if I might just need more adjusting?

I've tried to set the air mixture screws at a 1/4 turn but it pops and sputters even more as I apply gas becoming less noticeable the higher the gear. So I have the air mixture screws set at one full turn out right now.

Thanks for the help,
Dirk

ps: This is the bike when I started.

oops

Nice work!

Either intake boots are leaking or your fuel level is low in the float bowls.

larry C

Thanks Mark for the info, it does run better when I turn the mixture screws out one whole turn. I didn't want to turn them more cause I didn't know if it was good or bad. Some of the local mechanics said not to go past one turn.

The mixture screw is the same as the fuel screw isn't it?

Larry thanks,

I'll test for a leak, but how do I check the fuel level?

TexasKZ900 wrote:

Thanks Mark for the info, it does run better when I turn the mixture screws out one whole turn. I didn't want to turn them more cause I didn't know if it was good or bad. Some of the local mechanics said not to go past one turn.

The mixture screw is the same as the fuel screw isn't it?

the screws are similar. it's just that 1 adds air and the other adds fuel, as u turn it out. so they have opposite affects when u turn them in the same direction.:silly:

there is no harm in running with the scews out 1 turn, in fact its normal , up to 1.5 turns.
if the screw is on the airbox side,of the carb body, its an air screw. if on the engine side its a fuel screw. the thing u must be careful of, is running out of spring tension. the spring is there to keep then from falling out. so if u get past 1.5 turns out, u can then change to a larger pilot jet, and then ,not have to turn the screw out as far to get the same result.

If u have vm29 smooth bores. u have air screws. so in theory you should get lean when u unscrew them. but this is counter to your symptoms ??