Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

porchev914 wrote:

No, the filler will adhere best to bare metal. Hit the area you want to put the filler with 24-50 grit (what ever you have available) The epoxy primer is not a good primer filler, so you'll want your body filler/steel finished with about 320 or so....I think. The can of primer will say what grit to finish your substrate to, follow it as best you can

what is your feeling about useing spot putty? Taboo?
can it be used on metal or just over primer. it is easier to work with for small jobs like this.

Mark, I don't know what Adam will say, but I did have one experience with Bondo spot putty. :X Needless to say I won't go there again. The stuff never got hard, and I couldn't use it in the end.

testarossa wrote:

Mark, I don't know what Adam will say, Needless to say I won't go there again. The stuff never got hard, and I couldn't use it in the end.

That's what she said :laugh:

I knew that was coming.

when you lobb one up like that someones bound to take a swing at it....

frame is tight...lets hope it tracks good too...nows the time to weld any tabs for oil coolers ..steering dampners or rearsets...imo...although if you only prime it for the first build up...then take it down once you where stuff goes exactly and all finish welds are done ....really tight bro

i haven’t noticed any issue with the spot putty in the past. i just used it to cover small scratches and such. I’m not sure if there are any longevity issues though ?

trianglelaguna wrote:

when you lobb one up like that someones bound to take a swing at it....

frame is tight...lets hope it tracks good too...nows the time to weld any tabs for oil coolers ..steering dampners or rearsets...imo...although if you only prime it for the first build up...then take it down once you where stuff goes exactly and all finish welds are done ....really tight bro

I don't mind pitching batting practice.:laugh:

Good advice on the frame. I plan on checking the neck alignment, and wheel center very closely here soon. I checked it all when I had the bike mocked up, but its easier without all the stuff attached. I want to eliminate any variables possible when it comes to tracking issues.

Note to self, add some chain clearance inside the frame just in case.

As far as dampner tabs, oil cooler mounts, etc. I'm sure that those things will come later. That's part of the reason I'm painting instead of powdercoating at this point. I can see a time in the future when I'll strip it down to have the frame powder coated once I'm totally happy with the finished product.

its hard to say if they ever get finnished.
they just seem to evolve. everything seems allmost done , then some dick post his project (like carbon fiber sh*t. lol)and the wheels in your head start turning. before u know it, u are changing this and moding thay again. :laugh: i think for guys like us, paint is better then powder coat. its a little easier to get the grinder back out when its painted black.

testarossa wrote:

Mark, I don't know what Adam will say, but I did have one experience with Bondo spot putty. :X Needless to say I won't go there again. The stuff never got hard, and I couldn't use it in the end.

My old body shop boss hated spot putty. We weren't even allowed to use it- if we needed to fill pinholes in bondo, we mixed up a small batch of bondo and thinned it out with polyester resin. If I missed a pinhole in the bondo and it showed up in the primer, I had to sand off the primer and fix the pinhole. That said, I think spot putty has come along a little. I takes less time to work and be ready for sanding. It's easier to sand, but that also means it's not as tough/durable. If you are looking to fill small imperfections like pinholes or deep scratches, it should be fine. Beyond that I would use body filler. If you want something even more durable, use the fiberglass reinforced bodyfiller (it's green). That stuff is some tough shitte!

Mark is absolutely right though, there are some big dicks running around here that ruin it for the rest of use when they do something cool, and you start kicking yourself for not thinking of it for your bike :laugh:

I'm going to paint my frame for the same reason; once everything is together and I have all systems verified, I'll strip it back down and change/add anything I need, then have it powdercoated.

Incidently, this is why you use body filler instead of spot putty to fill thicker areas

The putty shrinks, leaving you with more work I did this as an experiment.....in laziness :laugh:

you didn't happen to weigh the tank did you? Just wondering what kind of savings you're going to achieve

All of this discussion of body filler, paint, and powdercoat leaves me with one question. Is the body filler usable when powder coating? I doubt it would survive the heat. Would the fillets need to be all steel?

BTW is anyone interested in more pictures of finished fillets, or should I just wait until I get the frame prepped for paint, and then painted? I hope to be ready to start spraying tomorrow, but who knows what will happen when I wake up.

I scored a pressure washer today on CL. Man I wish that I had that thing when I got home with the bike. It sure would have made my life easier.