Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

Do you have plans or a diagram for the PVC system? I was doing a heck of alot of sand blasting and did notice a tiny bit of moisture once in a while getting past the seperator I have. I saw a mist sometimes when I was blowing off the parts with an air chuck. I have an MX bike that I definately have to have paint mixed up and will be spraying it myself. I figured I could just mount that system on a wall then plug into it when I paint.

Yeah I can get you some info this evening when I get home.

Cool, thanks.

You have pm.

I can't believe that all I can muster is a weekly update these days. Anyway, I have been working for the past two days on prepping to build my motor. So this evening I started to assemble the lower end. First of all, many months ago I bought a KZ900 crank from mark1122. Thanks Mark its in great shape. I decided to get a couple of side by side photos for those who haven't ever seen the difference.





As you can see, the KZ900 crank on the right has much smaller counterweights. The KZ900 crank assembly minus the pistons weighs 31 lbs on my bathroom scale (nuclear precision). On the other hand, the larger KZ1000 crank assembly on the left weighs 35.5lbs. The net result of this is that the 1000 crank is designed to run smoother, but revs slower than the 900 crank. I was surprised to see that there was more than 4 lbs difference.

Here's a shot of the 900 crank with a new Tsubaki cam chain in the upper case half.



I disassembled the transmission to make double sure that everything is clean, and I gave everything a coat of fresh oil. Once I got everything back together, the transmission went back into its home.





One question for the gurus. When do I attempt to torque the center nut on the clutch basket? The manual says to torque to 100 ft lbs. Do I just wait until I get the engine in the bike and do the fifth gear/step on the rear brake trick?

testarossa wrote:

Here's a shot of the 900 crank with a new Tsubaki cam chain in the upper case half.

I disassembled the transmission to make double sure that everything is clean, and I gave everything a coat of fresh oil. Once I got everything back together, the transmission went back into its home.

One question for the gurus. When do I attempt to torque the center nut on the clutch basket? The manual says to torque to 100 ft lbs. Do I just wait until I get the engine in the bike and do the fifth gear/step on the rear brake trick?

That will work. I generaly use my 3/8 air gun. Never had a nut come loose on one....

I thought about using the airgun. That's how I got it off. I didn't know if that would be okay. Motorcycle engines are all new to me. I have done smallblock fords, chevys, jeep motors, outboards, and small engines, but none are quite the same as this. Thanks for the quick response.

you gotta love how kz lower ends go back together .
i like larry have always used my (different from larry)1/2 drive impact(mac or snap-on whichever is handiest).i use a rag and fold it over a few times and hold the top of the basket with the rag protecting my hand and nail it with the impact.i can't hold it tight enough to keep it from slipping so i have no fear of hurting the shaft or nut and have never had a problem.i have done that same thing on kz's and banshees hundreds of times.any progress is forward motion,don't get down on your self because it is not happening fast enough.
i know you are high strung but your getting there. :evil:

leon

i use an impact gun as well.
if u choose to use a torque wrench, u will need to put the bike in gear when its complete, then get someone to sit on it . its hard to keep the bike from moving forward on u, by yourself.
i have seen a handle (piece of rod)welded onto an old steel clutch plate. this is then used to hold the clutch basket while torquing the nut.
i use the impact gun on my sprocket as well.

I got to work on the bike for two days in a row! :woohoo:

Thanks guys. I'll probably just hit it with the impact gun tomorrow. That way I don't forget to do it later on, and I can button up the motor now.

Sorry no pictures tonight. I just did boring stuff. I located all of my case bolts, and chased the threads on every one. TEDIOUS! Cleaned up the shift drum, and got it back in the upper case half.

Now for the next question. The two shift forks that do not go on the drum appear to be the same, but one is stamped "T1" and the other says "T2." I can't remember what order that they came out, and they appear to be the same other than the markings. T1 has more wear than T2. The parts book seems to show the same part number for both forks. Does anyone know if there is a difference in placement of these two forks? I tried them both ways and they seem to work either way.

didnt your mama ever tell ya you could put an eye out with an air gun?id suggest an impact wrench myself! :laugh: