Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

i thought you had turned them off so you could have your race team logo carved in there(One Hung Low Racing Team ) all cnc style and stuff.:laugh:
aw,just joking man.
i have turned the dohc off of 3 or 4 points covers and 2 or three alt.covers.there are some points covers that are thinner than the others.if you look at the back of the points cover and you can see the impression of the dohc boss and some strengthening ridges,those are thin.i turned one off and my buddy came by a few days later and said 'man my bike is making a wierd singin sound'i said "start it up".you could hear a high pitch ringing sound,i cocked my head(like a dog)and walked over and put my hand on the points cover and it stopped.my buddy was like what the hell.i guess we got it thin enough that the harmonics would make it sing.you don't have that problem with the thick ones tho.

leon

ROTFLMAO! :laugh: One Hung Low Racing Team always carries their kickstand with them every where they go! So instead of DOHC it would read OHLRT. I bet that would be a conversation starter for sure.

Actually that would be cool to mill something in those covers, and I could make that happen fairly easy at work. However, I think that I would have to start by flycutting the tops. They aren't exactly flat. I was noticing that the clutch cover is like a funhouse mirror when you polish it.

they are a compound curve.could you not just set the cutter depth and then let the depth vary with the curve?
i don't know jack about cnc.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote:

they are a compound curve.could you not just set the cutter depth and then let the depth vary with the curve?
i don't know jack about cnc.

leon

It can certainly be done, but it's way more complicated that simply writing an engraving program for a flat surface. Following the curve involves 3-D milling where you are interpolating through all three axes at the same time. Basically you are having to use a ballnose endmill, and calculating the tangent points in all axes for every move. The amount of trig becomes staggering, and normally the 3-D programs are all written by CAM software. We have the facilities, but I usually try to keep the "Government Work" quick and easy.

You did a great job on the engine Josh. I am curious, did you polish the edges of the fins or sand them? On the points cover, I like the Moriwaki (or whatever) clearenced cover, but a custom CNC job would be bad ass, especially with Won Phat Hass Racing or whatever it was :laugh:

You guys are too creative with names for my race team. I like Leon's the best. Adam I just sanded the fins so far. I have them down to 320, and I'm not sure that they really need to be polished.

All I know is that if you run a clearanced point cover, then you better be able to put some scratches in it without putting the bike down.

BTW I got my exhaust valves back in tonight.

Let me take a crack at naming my race team. Phuc Loo Sing!

I'm sure the 320 looks great. I only asked because I have read of people "polishing" the fins, so I wondered what you had done. I would imagine that actually polishing the edges of the fins would be alot of work, but might look killer.....

531blackbanshee wrote:

good job testa!
i like how you spun the dohc off the covers.
lookin good man,

leon

i give credit to my dear ol dad for coming up with the plain jane covers look origionally back in the early 80s around these parts anyway,along with the color coordinated frame/bodywork that seems so popular these days

So Plum, was that Dad's bike? That takes guts to paint your frame red, but it looks good on that bike. I think I'll stick to black for mine.

So I finished sticking the head together this evening. Almost made a classic mistake. After I had five of the valves all snug in their holes I realized that I forgot to install the valve stem seals. One quick pointer for those who have not built these heads before. Make sure that the lower spring seat is in place before you install the valve stem seal.

The motor looks great. I love the loo of the polished fins too.

After nearly two weeks with no updates, I finally got back to work this weekend. I am preparing to re-assemble my engine/trans. After working to clean cases, and final prep on gasket surfaces, I remembered that I still have to deal with the broken spring in my clutch hub. So I started to tear apart the clutch basket assembly. First step is to remove the basket from the output shaft. Definitely need an impact gun for this one. That center nut was tight.

Here you can see my broken spring.



Here's what they look like after I removed them. Two were loose and you can see the broken one.



Now in order to get everything apart, you have to drill out the three rivets that hold the basket assembly together. Once you get the centers drilled out of the rivets, then you can use a punch to drive them out the other side. They are a press fit in there.



Here's what you need to fix the problem. APE heavy duty clutch hub rebuild kit. Two things to note about the APE kit. All six of the hub springs are the heavy gauge wire. Half of the stockers were heavy, and half were a lighter weight spring. Also, the new rivets in the APE kit are larger diameter (.437" vs .370") than the stock rivets. This means that you need to drill out the holes.



The steel backing plate on the back of the basket is very hard steel. I thought that my drill was cutting well since I saw steel chips coming out of the hole, but the chips were from the drill.



In the end, I had to grind the holes larger, and I used up four grinding stones on my Dremel tool.

Here it is mostly back together. I ran out of time to finish it, but should be done tomorrow.

I must say that I am pleased with the quality of the APE kit. Everything fit together well.

I also discovered another broken case bolt that I didn't know about. It is broken off inside of one of the dowel pins on the alternator cover side of the engine case. I don't think that I can weld anything to it to get it out.

testarossa wrote:

So Plum, was that Dad's bike? That takes guts to paint your frame red, but it looks good on that bike. I think I'll stick to black for mine.

So I finished sticking the head together this evening. Almost made a classic mistake. After I had five of the valves all snug in their holes I realized that I forgot to install the valve stem seals. One quick pointer for those who have not built these heads before. Make sure that the lower spring seat is in place before you install the valve stem seal.

yep still sitting in the basement wating for next phase.that bike was done that way back in 82,the covers were also milled down back then.he was ahead of the times to put it mildly! :laugh: