Testarossa's 78 KZ1000 Fighter Build

The pink patches that you see are not polyester body filler. This is an epoxy based plastic body filler called Evercoat Maxim. When mixed, it achieves that familiar pink color just like bondo. However it is a considerable pain in the rear to sand down.

FYI, as long as you use automotive grade primer, you shouldn't need to use any special adhesion promoter on your plastic parts. Your DP90 will make a good primer sealer on your metal parts as well, if you choose to top coat them with something else. Nice clean, freshly painted parts are so much more fun to handle too, but with it comes the irrational fear that a bug will scratch your new paint. (do try to keep the bugs out while the paint is fresh)

I have found that thermoset plastics that require a hardener (epoxy) vs. a catalyst (polyester) form a much harder, more durable final product that resists sanding considerably. Just be careful when you sand since it is possible that the parent ABS plastic will sand away easier than the body filler, leaving a high spot.

Adam, do you have any ideas on how to protect the paint in the areas that the seat makes contact? I know that the first problem that I'll have is from the seat. I won't be able to resist the urge to mount everything as soon as the paint is dry to the touch.

I saw mentioned elsewhere the use of the clear paint protector film in the contact areas (rear tip of the tank, front of the tail). Not sure how well that would work.

This is good stuff, and it's very durable
www.invisiblemask.com/?gclid=CND5isLvi6YCFRRKgwodVSZhpg
or this
www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=U03I3ZU9X
sorry, in this country
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/leadingedgetape.php

all this talk about sanding reminds me of something that i got for christmas from my wife.

www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-band...lt-sander-92158.html

i figured for the price i could at least try one out.cheaper than a dyna file.i forgot the 20% off coupon but my wife found one layin in the store so we used that and walked out with it for $30.00 bucks.it seems to be made pretty decent i took the head apart and made sure it had grease in it.everything looked good inside,i got it apart and back together without breaking anything .it only has an on and off switch,but i have some dimmer switches wired in to a junction box with a plug in and extension cord so that anything i plug in to it i can control the speed of with the dimmer rotary switch.

hopefully you get more done on your days off than i did on mine,ten days off and it seemed like there was something every day that kept me outta the shop .

leon

Ha! I thought about picking up the air powered version, but I was kinda skeptical about how useful it would be. Let me know if it works Leon, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year fellas

i like air tools as much as the next guy,but sometimes it just makes more sense to me to run a little electric motor instead of the big one on my compressor.
i will make sure and report back and let you guys now what i think about it.

leon

never seen a sander like that. what kinda stuff do you use it on?

Nelson wrote:

never seen a sander like that. what kinda stuff do you use it on?

I used to use the real deal Dynafile daily at the previous machine shop that I worked in. It was invaluable for deburring the the countless Inconel parts that we machined. It's also a perfect tool to smooth fillet welds to a perfect radius. The Dynafile was a real workhorse tool. The only downside was that it consumed a lot of the belts. But anything used on Inconel will wear quickly.

nelson,
i got the hand held belt sander for cleaning up welds mainly.i have a buell blast that i have chopped/molested and i built my own handlebars(among many other things).while i was blending the welds i was envisioning a hand held belt sander,and how much faster i could work and still get a very nice result.
you can weld stuff together and make it look like it was cast with one of these lil fellers :laugh: .



leon