TOPIC:

No sir, I started with a 8"x48" piece of 1/8" thick steel plate, a hand drill, a jigsaw, a stack of files and a dream.

My little tip for you on getting symetrical complicated features. First, actually cut out the piece of steel on one side only. Second, finish the shape by grinding, filing, sanding or whatever. Third, trace the shape on to a piece of cardboard/heavy paper. Fourth, transfer the shape onto the steel as a mirror image of the first side along the centerline. Fifth, cut, grind, file, sand, or whatever up to your guidelines.

I hope my description makes sense. I would be happy to photographically document this if necessary. Thank you for taking notice of the symmetry. That is the whole reason why I use my method. Most people would never even notice. It is a credit to your attention to detail.

Oh yeah, I should note that I spend all day staring at parts that are held to 0.0001" tolerance, so my eyes are calibrated.

I guess I never thought of doing it in halves before. it makes sense that if you cut out half then make a mirror template it would be a fairly exact symetrical part. That being said, I think your day to day work on super close tolerance work also aids your stock removal judgement You must have had to remove ALOT of steel to start with a 48" long piece of sheet and end up with a 6" bracket

Yeah, I started by lopping off that offending 42" right off the bat. Here lately, one of my main customers has become soo picky that I have to check each part under the microscope for burrs that aren't visible to the naked eye. I have done this enough that I will see something that looks "off," then take a mic to the part to find out that it is 0.004" over/under. I think to myself, I just saw that, WTF. It is really amazing what the human mind is capable of, if properly conditioned.

So any carburetor gurus out there, who wants to steer me straight on my jet selection?

26 or 28mm carbs?

VM26 SS.

Sorry u gave up on the CSR.Mine is a "rescue bike" That sat in a s hed in S.Carolina for 20 years. I bought a rolling chassis,Part of an engine , and 4 old milk crates full of misc.parts for 100 bucks. I rolled the bike around on dry rotted tires for 18 months that I actually thoght were holding air. The sidewalls were holding the bike up.Lol.Took me 2 years and lots of false starts and stops to get the thing together and running.Sweet little bike now. Plus the 82 s have the J model engine that is much easier to mod up if u wish.Much good luck on yours. I have lots of spare parts if u need anything and I do mean lots.bj

soak and clean all carb passages,jets and body.
blow out with air.
be sure u have air passing from 1 end of passage to the other before u reasemble.or i will kick your ass.
Set float height measurement.(24mm?)
Then with fuel, check the fuel level with the clear tube method.try to do this on the bench if u can.u will need to rig up a fuel supply .even if u put the tank up on a chair on the bench?
Add inline fuel filter.
what are the stock jet sizes?
i would go up 1 size on pilot, raise needle 1 notch, and go up 2 main sizes, from stock.
adjust the pilot screws out 1.5 turns from seat.
After start up, readjust the pilot screws to obtain the highest idle rpm, readjust the slide idle screw to proper rpm .about 1000 rpm.
If u find the pilot screws are turned out more than 2 turns or less than .5, u should go up or down 1 size pilot jet.
if u need details ,just ask.

your jet and needle position is really close to what i run in both my 26's and 28's it might turn out to be a bit fat but that's better than the alternative, right. try it you will be close you might have to go up or a size depending on how strong your motor is and your elevation but you will be able to run the bike no problem with that setup.

Thanks guys. Timebomb, you and I are on the same page. I want it a little on the fat side to start out. I just want it to start and run well enough to get a lap around the subdivision. Mostly my elevation will be at sea level with regular trips to the Texas hill country (about 2000ft.)

Mark, I just have one question. When you come down to kick my ass are you bringing the grinder? Seriously, I have no idea what the stock jet sizes are. I'm not even sure that these are the carbs that came with the bike. Yes, they are the correct model carbs, but I bought the bike from a guy that had two KZ1000's not runnig, one KZ900 running, and a CB750 running. I bet that there was some part swapping going on. Heck I thought I had an LTD until I checked the vin#. It came with LTD bodywork, 16" wire rear wheel, etc. Anyway it had #15 pilots, and #112.5 mains. No airbox or pod filters, and no trace of an exhaust, so no clues there.

What do you do to clear a blocked passage if the air doesn't pass?

hocbj23 wrote:

Sorry u gave up on the CSR.Mine is a "rescue bike" That sat in a s hed in S.Carolina for 20 years. I bought a rolling chassis,Part of an engine , and 4 old milk crates full of misc.parts for 100 bucks. I rolled the bike around on dry rotted tires for 18 months that I actually thoght were holding air. The sidewalls were holding the bike up.Lol.Took me 2 years and lots of false starts and stops to get the thing together and running.Sweet little bike now. Plus the 82 s have the J model engine that is much easier to mod up if u wish.Much good luck on yours. I have lots of spare parts if u need anything and I do mean lots.bj

My CSR would have been beyond a rescue bike. It would have been a quasi-Biblical resurrection. All of the engine gaskets were replaced with RTV, and the wiring harness looked as likely to start a fire as start the bike. That said, the bike was mostly complete, and for the price of a gasket set, carb kits, and fuel tank it would have been a runner. I let my dad talk me into giving it up, but he was a motorycycle hater. It's part of what motivates me to get this bike done. I have unfinished business. That first bike tought me to love KZ's and this bike will be the completion of that lost love.

if it ran with those carbs i would just go up 1 size on the pilot and 1 needle clip and 2 sizes on the main from there .if not, then go with the advice above. 20 pilots and 120 mains.
use your torch tip cleaning tool, the wire pick/files to clean out the carb passages. this is not recomended for the jest though ,as it can change the size if u are not careful. but since u have a calibrated eye , i think u could do it.
i have actually had to drill out the brass bead at the elbow of a passage before. then i jammed a lead fishing weight(small split shot) back in the hole to reseal it.

I thought that I had read somewhere about not poking in passages with wires. Lets just hope that I don't have to resort to those methods. Lord, if I have to drill out brass beads, then I may loose my mind. That's uncharted territory for me. I should know more by tonight. My two carbs have been marinating for a couple of days now. I'll try to blow them out tonight.