TOPIC:

Thats actually a good question.

I have had people tell me the shocks can be tilted, but i find it hard to believe.

It seems like you would have binding as you compress the rear suspension. The shocks need to be paralell in my opinion, for freedom of movemment.

when i built my swingarm i had to build spacers to move the top of my shocks out to be even with the bottom.having them angled in may work ,but offended my sense of neatness .

leon holmes

tk11b40 wrote:

mark1122 wrote:

That bushing may work just fine Ted.i have reamed the motor mount bolt holes out to the next size.my bolt measures 9.36mm or .369". Thanks.
the oil lines look PRO! Nice work on the clamps.
I love the Swiss cheese look.Very cool.
Do u have a Dana2000 to run the tack?

I have not decided on ignition but the Dyna 2000 seems to be the best choice. If I use the Vapor that would seal it. no tach cables spinning around and slopping oil.

The roller should be complete by Saturday 28th. I sketched one out, and since I got no lathe in the garage, Ed the magical tool maker has graciously volunteered to make 2.

I am thinking this is the ticket, so you get to test fire it. The roller would hold up real good with a bearing, but the bushing wieghs a whole lot less, and the only thing its for is so the Nylon roller gets spun a littel instead of gouged.

Mark,
Roller is done, e-mail a shipping address. I'll mail it to ya.

The roller is done, well roller prototype. Thanks to Mark for heading off a problem I would have had later. No doubt been all upset about it.

The ceramic coating is done on the header, Performance Coatinfs in Seattle, nice work. Good service.

Header...

I decided at the last minute to have the silencer coated in Satin Titainium. Thought it would break up the size of the header, trying to make everything look smaller.

They had the pipe for about a week. Outstanding service, and it looks real nice. The oily looking stuff is from my hands while installing the header.

Highly reccommend Performance Coatings of Seattle!!

The roller is just a nylon roller, with a slip fit over the aluminum bushing. Ed cranked these out for me. Thanks Ed!!

A bearing would be good, but the roller will not be spinning all the time, the bearing will weigh more, and the bushing will get the same job done.

tk11b40 wrote:

The roller is done, well roller prototype. Thanks to Mark for heading off a problem I would have had later. No doubt been all upset about it.

The ceramic coating is done on the header, Performance Coatinfs in Seattle, nice work. Good service.

Sweet!
Send her up and i'll do my best to give her a proper thrashing.
I just got back from a holiday up in northern ontario, Can. i found some very twisty and bumpy roads. this was the first real test for the new suspension. i found that i got a bad wobble when i hit any small dip at lean. Scarry stuff at first , but i got used to it. i think it is due to the low rake angle (24*). update, i discovered my tire preasure was low and that caused the wobble at lean. its all good now since i put air in the tires. i had leaking valve stems.

tk11b40 wrote:

Photo of "new problem"....

I built my uppers similar to yours. i had a sleeve intsalled to extend the frame out. then slide a bolt through the shock and sleeve. i didnot extend the sleeve all the way through like u did though.just 1 welded on each side.
How much do a set of Ollies cost? Verry nice Ted.

Wobble at small Bump.

I dont claim to be a suspension guru, but I would be looking at the simple stuff first.

Tire pressure. Low pressure does some real wierd stuff. I run 26 lbs front and rear on the track with the Ducati. 31--30, on the street. People think they need to run track pressure on the street but in reality, the tire never heats up on the street like it does on the track. Wen I forget to reset pressure after a track day, the bike feels really different.

24 degrees seems pretty steep, but I dont see how that would set up and oscillation. Lowering the rear suspension would help the steep rake.

Wheel alignment? Try hard on the brakes, over a slight bump. Then go back and try hard acceleration over the same bump. If it does not do it hard on the brakes, it's cause the rear wheel is unloaded. Tracking would not be affected. When you accelerate hard the fron tire lifts then as the front end gets wieghted (planted back on the pavement), it's gonna try to get back in line with the rear tire, and that will set up a weird oscillation.


Thats about all I can think of. I know what good suspension feels like, but having to start from scratch and set it up is tough.

When I bought the Ducati they told me it was all set for a 150 pound rider, whHHOOOAAA!! iT FELT LIKE WOOD. The most common mistake is to set it up too stiff. Set you sag at 1/3 the travel. I like to run the rear a little soft, the rear wheel stays on the ground more, even over really small bumps while hard on the brakes.

OK so I dunno if that helps or not. I cant even guarantee its perfect. But I have set up a few bikes. It's just real trial and error stuff.

mark1122 wrote:

tk11b40 wrote:

Photo of "new problem"....

I built my uppers similar to yours. i had a sleeve intsalled to extend the frame out. then slide a bolt through the shock and sleeve. i didnot extend the sleeve all the way through like u did though.just 1 welded on each side.
How much do a set of Ollies cost? Verry nice Ted.

I almost sprang for a new set after searching for two years. I priced them at 1300 clams (american clams).

Then I found these on E bay, I think I paid arouns 350 for them.

Thanks for the tips.
I just printed off a lot of info from Gostar racing. i have a lot to learn.
if i jab, or pull, the bar on 1 side, the bike does a fast wobble then settles back down. that is what it feels like in a corner if i hit a dip or bump, but it can last longer.

Do u deflate the tires on the track because the air expands as the tires heat up?