TOPIC:

Between now and then it would be a good idea to confirm what jets and needles are in the carbs. The fsm lists the stock numbers.

Hello TexasKZ:
How can I tell what jets are needles are in the carbs? Maybe its a dumb question, but I don't know how to identify them.
Ron

They should have a code stamped on them.

Once the carbs are spotlessly clean, all the gaskets a orings renewed, the jets and needles are sorted, the fuel levels are correct and the basic bench synchronization is done, you will need to do the fine tuning. 
So far, the only tools needed are a couple of wrenches and high quality, tight fitting JIS screwdrivers, and a short length of clear tubing. The only specialty tool needed is for the final synchronization. I use one of these. www.ocdmachine.com/carbtune-pro-4-column.html
 

OK so I'm going to try to go from pods (the bike was tuned for pods) back to the original airbox. I know these questions probably sound dumb but that's where I'm at. I ordered two carb kits from Z1 (they've arrived) mostly because I needed the fuel bowl gaskets. But now, when going back to the original airbox, should I replace all the jets currently in the carbs with these new jets from the kits? I'm assuming that gets me back to the original airbox jets? In that case I'll need to order two more kits and the O rings, although I don't really understand which O rings I need (some appear to be in the kits, but I understand there is a bunch more I think in the fuel lines feeding the 4 carbs?). So, at this point I'm wondering, should I get another 2 carb kits then replace all the carb parts with what is in the kits. I also need to obtain a few more airbox parts like the brackets that hold it, and the springs that go around the rubber air tunnels connecting the airbox to the carbs. 
Ron

Before you replace any jets, you need to find out what is in there. The jets and the needles will  have numbers stamped on them. The factory jetting is listed in the fsm. Aftermarket jets often use their own system of numbering just to complicate matters. 
If you look at the exploded parts diagrams on Partzilla or CMSNL, you can see where all those pesky orings go. You will also want to insure that all four choke plates are present.

The springs, ducts and that bracket show as still available from Kawasaki, by way of Partzilla.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...kz550-d1/air-cleaner

You must sign in to see the price of the ducts. You may want to be seated before you do that.

 

I'm finally getting these carbs back together after a thorough cleaning. Question: the top part of the carb with the throttle shaft that rotates, how it is lubricated? Do I need to add lubricant to the top part of the carb assembly? Thanks.
Ron

Thanks for all the previous help on this topic...I disappeared for a couple of months to deal with other issues. I've cleaned the carbs thoroughly and put them back on, I'm still using the pod air cleaners because it's so much easier to work with them than the original airbox and it's tight fit. The bike starts (it needs coaxing) and will run only with the choke on full. After it fully warms up the choke can very slowly be turned off.

I have an issue with the #1 (left) carb pumping out overflow gas from the floatbowl every 30 or 60 seconds. I've had it apart several times and don't see an issue with it, but perhaps the float level is not properly set. The connectors (I don't know the right name) between the carb and the cylinder head, on which the vacuum gauge attachments are mounted), are these matched to the cylinders? The numbers on these units are different, and I may not have them on in the order they came off. On some the vacuum fitting it pointed up, on others down. I still need to learn about how to balance these units and get a device to do it.

I need to change the tires on this bike, and don't have a lift. I'm surprised there is not a link in the rear chain to get it off.... does anyone know if its possible to get the rear wheel off this bike without breaking the chain?

Thanks. Ron

RonG wrote:

I need to change the tires on this bike, and don't have a lift. I'm surprised there is not a link in the rear chain to get it off.... does anyone know if its possible to get the rear wheel off this bike without breaking the chain?

Thanks. Ron

Yes.  The rear wheel removal process is described in the factory Kawasaki service manual

Hello KZ Riders:

I'm slowly learning about carbs, having this set on/off about 7 times at this point. This bike is running now but roughly and the carbs are not synched yet. I'm using the air pods as it's much easier to work on it this way. I'm having two issues that maybe someone recognizes.

1. The left carb is dumping fuel every 20-30 seconds from the drain at the bottom of the float bowl. I've adjusted the float levels, they are all even, the other 3 carbs don't do this, and I don't see any problem inside the carb. It's clean. What would cause fuel to jettison like this? It pisses out about a healthy 6 inch stream every 20-30 seconds, it's been doing this throughout the entire carb process. I imagine the float bowl is overflowing somehow, but don't know why.

2. The throttle cables...push and pull. They are on there and new, but it's damn hard to get them on and adjusted. The previous ones (including a wrong off cable) was routed around the front of the right fork and down the main backbone strut to the carb, but that's really tight. This time I've left them outside of the forks, just wrapping from the handlebar and running them down inside the tank on the right side. The cables are freer this way, but moving the handlebars full to the right causes the engine to accelerate. I haven't found any good routing that doesn't create this.

Thanks for any suggestions. Also, any suggestion on a cheap (one time use) vacuum test unit appreciated that would work on an 81 GPZ.

Ron

The overflow is likely a combination of a float valve that is not sealing, and the petcock not fully closing. Have you checked the fuel level in each carb using the clear tube method? Setting the floats to a certain height will get them in the ballpark, but is inexact and will not show you a leaking float valve.

Looks like your throttle cables may be too short. Are the adjusters fully together? If they are shortened up as much as possible and everything is assembled properly, then the cables are probably too short. 

Hello TexasKZ:

Got it, thanks. At this point I suspect the float valve, I'll open it up again and check as best I can, and maybe swap it with #4 carb.

The clear tube method, it sounds simple but I don't really understand it. I take the carbs off then hook them to the tank, turn on the gas, but when the float rises the gas will turn off? Can I use the drain tubes on the bottom of the carbs now? Can I check all 4 at one time? I think I'm missing some obvious major step here.

Ron

Your service manual will show you the procedure,.(Preferably the factory manual, but I believe the Chilton's or Haynes, etc will have it too).  You can check one at a time (leave the drain plugs tight on the other 3) or if you have 4 of the tubes you can do all 4 at the same time.  The level check is possible with the carb rack still on the engine, maybe use an auxiliary fuel supply for better access.