TOPIC:

Got it thanks, that's what I'll do.

If you do not separate the bodies from each other, you will not be able to insure that the fuel t and fuel transfer tubes are clean inside, and you will not be able to replace the 12 orings on them. Do you really want to risk having to do all this a second time?

Yes, some of those adjustments can be rather fiddly, but with a little help, you can get through them.

There is a wealth of information about the 550s on Lou’s website. Since he is no longer with us, God rest his soul, I recommend downloading everything you think you might need since that website will one day disappear without warning.
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/index.html
 

Got it TexasKZ, thanks.

Yes, once you get into it, it's like the Alexandrian Library of KZ550's, thank you Lou!

Hello TexasKZ: 

Could you point out from the diagram below, what are the 12 O rings you are referring to? Also, does anyone know, are the O rings on these carbs all (partzilla) part number 670B1505, noted as 'O ring 5mm'? That would be convenient... or do I need different sizes?

Pine Sol... I'm starting to dream about it... I used the pine scented stuff as nothing else was available, now I'm concerned about getting all that out lest it gum up. It definitely did something however, lots of black residue formed in various areas.

This bike was previously tuned for the pod air cleaners. How can I tell what size a jet is? I don't see it stamped on the parts.  

Thank you. 
Ron

 

Sorry about that last post... that was supposed to be a partzilla parts diagram I pasted in, but appears to me as a long page of code.

RonG wrote:

Sorry about that last post... that was supposed to be a partzilla parts diagram I pasted in, but appears to me as a long page of code.

I have edited it, I believe this happens if you "drag and drop"

Ron, the stock main jets, with airbox and standard exhaust were were #94.

I managed to "tune" mine to run ok, with K&N pods and a Kerker 4 into 1.
I settled on #102 main jets, with the needle clip in the 3rd groove (standard)
Note: I used jets from a DynoJet kit, which look a little different to stock jets.
It wasn't perfect: I couldn't find a "ballance" of low-down torque and "clean" top-end.

I decided to find and fit the correct airbox.
That was the best thing I could have done!  #97 mains, needle clips in the 3rd groove.
This transformed her into the sweetest little thing!



H.

Reference number 670, seven millimeter.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...0-d1/carburetor-assy


Perhaps you could ask Nessism if he has oring kits for these carbs.

Thanks for those responses, I understand the right O ring part: Reference number 670, seven millimeter.

The airbox question. I'm in pretty well over my head now, but I know I can get it running with the pods. I have the airbox minus one clamp, but I'm not sure about the parts shown on the partzilla diagram that are in front of the airbox, several lines with a splitter of some sort it looks like, I need to find another KZ here to look at. The guy who rebuilt my engine complained about tuning it with the pods, he also said go back to the airbox and it would be a lot easier. But he knew what he was doing, had tons of experience and a full garage and tools, I don't. I can mount the airbox, get the missing parts, but after that I wouldn't know where to begin with tuning. Don't I need special tools for that, never mind knowledge? While its tempting, maybe the airbox is better left as a next summer project.

It's supposed to get cold here in a day or two so that will delay this Canadian winter carport project somewhat, and I'm waiting for some parts to arrive. Meanwhile I'll try to understand jetting a bit more. Thanks for your help. I was looking through some of the bike pictures.... that plating of parts was a good idea... I need to do that.

Ron

Those lines in the upper left portion of the diagram are part of the Kawasaki Clean Air System. Most guys toss that system in the bin. It is connected to the exhaust ports and has no effect on the carbs, as long as the vacuum ports on the carbs are capped and the hole in the airbox is plugged.

You will need the same tools to tune the carbs whether the airbox is used or not.

If you have a complete air filter box and the carbs are jetted for it, I say install the box.

If you have the box and the carbs do not have the factory size jets, I say rejet them and go with the box.

If you do not have a box at hand (they can be hard to find and surprisingly expensive), I say go without it. The mechanical slide carbs on your bike are usually not that hard to set up for individual filters, as long as they are high quality ones from APE, K&N or Uni. The cheap Chinese knock-offs can be a nightmare.

Got it, thanks. I do have the airbox except for a couple of minor items I can find. I guess I'll plan on installing the airbox and go from there.
Ron