New KZ owner

True. If it's not running below 3k rpm then idle circuit seems likely. However with the initial condition of running rich at idle ( if I'm correctly interpreting the initial post ), you may also want to pay special attention to the choke circuit and determine if it's causing the rich conditions at lower rpms. That's about the only two things I can think of other than needle clip position that would richen the mix at lower rpms. On a side note, super jealous of that bike :laugh:

punisher11b wrote: True. If it's not running below 3k rpm then idle circuit seems likely. However with the initial condition of running rich at idle ( if I'm correctly interpreting the initial post ), you may also want to pay special attention to the choke circuit and determine if it's causing the rich conditions at lower rpms. That's about the only two things I can think of other than needle clip position that would richen the mix at lower rpms. On a side note, super jealous of that bike :laugh:

Yes! It's a sweetheart

Ok ill try and be a bit more detailed....got the bike and rebuilt the carb, cleaned it which it wasnt dirty anyway, new jets, ect. Bike wouldn't kick over unless I put no choke, and adjusted the idle screw...as it warms the idle rises so I play with the idle screw.....I can get it to idle wherever I want, but when I go and then let off the gas it dips and then rises, and if I dont set the idle at 3k it dips so low it kills it.

This is with the clip in position 2...in 3 it ran great great once warm but wouldnt start with the choke and I had to mess with the idle.....something is keeping it from getting enough air..........the air screw I set in to where it was seated and then backed it out a 1 1/4 like the manual said. Every other screw ect is seated firmly.

Yeah, that's were I got the idea it was running rich at lower rpm range. Now I think I get it, it idles fine but dies when a load is applied at lower rpm correct? It should run with the choke on. I agree with you in It sounds like it was better at the third needle clip position and the problem is not enough air with just the idle circuit. I think adjusting the air screw may be your next step. Some combo of air screw and needle clip positions should get that bike running.

3rd position ran best minus needing more air, How much play in the air screw do I really have? Ive considered a pod air filter but I really want to leave the bike stock if I can......I think ill go back to the stock needle clip and mess with the air screw a bit.

I would stay far away from pods IMO. Here is some info about fine tuning the air screw I found.
www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/298366-carb-setting-kz200
I would think you should at least be able to go a full turn in each direction.

Just to clarify is the pilot air screw the same as the air screw? My manual shows pilot jet and air screw, just want to make sure im set. Everything internally is seated, outside on the left I have idle and air screws. Air screw is 1 1/4 out from seat, idle screw is ajusted as it warms.

Yeah it is, I would start by turning it half a turn to increase air and see how it responds.

Start over. Bench sync the carbs. Clean stock jets. See if it will idle. See if choke works. Needles in center position. If good, go from there.
Steve

Noting there to bench sync - there's only 1 carb. Ed

A vacuum leak will cause high revs, along with what has been said here look also for leaks on your carb boot, it can be something simple like a vacuum leak.

650ed wrote: Noting there to bench sync - there's only 1 carb. Ed

OK, set the carb on the bench, install stock jets and go from there.
Yes, could be a leak at the head.
Steve