Hope to be riding my 650 soon.

Newbie here with a recently purchased 82 650 CSR H2. Bought it from a friend for $50. 20k miles on this bike that's been sitting in the garage for 10 years. WG did a rebuild on the carbs so she starts and runs. Now, on to all the other maintenance it needs. Thanks for all the info I've read through, already.

Congrats on the bike. Especially that smokin deal.

Welcome to KZR, great score on the bike/

Mark

50$!!! What a steal. As a fellow KZ650 fanatic, I welcome you

Welcome to the KZR Nation. Great to have you here.

50 bones and no fire arms involved... astonishing!:ohmy: :woohoo:

Now some pics!

Best of success.
Bill

Here's a pic (finally). This has been a much longer project (so far) than I expected. The bike is finally together enough that I took it for a ride. It starts/idles great after a minute of warm-up but runs pretty weak. I'm wondering in what order some of the tune-up duties should be performed ? Carbs sync'd, valve clearance inspected/shimmed, etc. Also found out that the speedo is busted. Are there any options other than the obvious auction sites ?

Based on the symptoms you describe it sounds to me like the carbs are dirty from sitting with fuel in them. If it has been 3 years since WG reworked them, and if fuel was in them for a good portion of that time (let's say 4 months or more) without the bike being used regularly, I would start by thoroughly cleaning the carbs. That may completely solve the problem. Ed

jtroop wrote: Here's a pic (finally). I'm wondering in what order some of the tune-up duties should be performed ? Carbs sync'd, valve clearance inspected/shimmed, etc.

Since you asked, I found this list on another bike forum. Hope people don't mind its from outside KZR.

Here is the list of suggested maintenance for recently purchased vintage bikes.

1) Seal the airbox and air filter with weatherstripping.

2) Ensure no intake leaks. Spraying WD-40 or water doesn't tell you much, since very small air leaks can cause problems even though they won't suck in enough WD-40 to make a difference. Replace your intake boot o-rings and boots if needed, and seriously consider spending the lousy $28 for new airbox/carb boots.

3) Ensure clean carbs with correct settings, new o-rings, and original OEM jets. No, not just squirted with something. I mean completely disassembled and dipped in Berryman’s for 24 hours—each carb.

4) Check/adjust valve clearances. This is not optional.

5) Ensure healthy electrical system.

6) Seriously consider upgrading coils and plug wires.

7) Install new plugs.

8 ) Fine-tune float height and idle mixture screw to ensure best off-idle transition.

9) Clean air filter and reinstall with only the lightest oil mist -- over-oiling and/or letting the filter get dirty is a common and critical mistake, and will make the bike run funny at low speeds and run rich. This may take a few tries.

10) Make sure the exhaust seals are sealing.

11) Ooh, much better now, huh? You're gonna need upgraded suspension - Progressive or better fork springs and shocks. Set suspension sag appropriately.

12) Upgrade brakes with new pads and stainless lines to deal with all that extra speed. Flush out brake lines.

13) Install new petcock, since I'm going to head to the roof with a rifle if I have to read about yet another #2 plug fouling and failed hillbilly attempts to rebuild the petcock and/or deny there's a problem.

14) Oh yeah -- check compression somewhere in there to ensure the valves and rings are reasonably healthy.

Thanks, everyone (and thanks to the "search" feature).

I think that my main problem was that one of the float needles wasn't sealing. Now with the carbs synced, etc, it starts/runs strong !