KZ 650 Front Fork Pinch Bolt Stud - Help Please!

Moving on   LOL, 

I bought these hoping the clamp them on the axle clamp stud to remove them without maring them up, so that I can blast the lowers without ruining the studs. Worked good. 


 

wrote:

Moving on 

 LOL, 

I bought these hoping the clamp them on the axle clamp stud to remove them without maring them up, so that I can blast the lowers without ruining the studs. Worked good.
 

That's a good idea!

wrote:

two nuts are better than one...!
 

Yes, Yes they are.  

Boy Oh Boy, have I been getting an education not only from The Collective here but searching online.  It started with tap & die tools search.  Next thing I know I am looking at special "Stud Removal Sockets"!  Here is the link.>>>    BikeMaster Stud Removal Sockets | 10% ($4.88) Off! - RevZilla   

I ordered a set.  If I have not got that out by the time they arrive, then they are up next.  One thing is for sure.  I am adding to my tools as I go.    

Hi Forrest, these sockets work well (I have a set) but a word of warning, make sure you‘ve done your heat and penetrating fluid because they grip like a “lady of the night” on your wallet so feel that stud out gently 

wrote:

Hi Forrest, these sockets work well (I have a set) but a word of warning, make sure you‘ve done your heat and penetrating fluid because they grip like a “lady of the night” on your wallet so feel that stud out gently 

Copy That Wookie.  BTW, love the analogy.  
Applied more heat this a.m. along with a mallet impact tap then shot it with more penetrating oil.  "Treating her gently like the first time", not like a "lady of the night".  

Just to be sure; thee pinch bolt stud threads up in the fork are standard thread NOT reverse thread, Right?

I don’t know for sure but I can’t imagine they would be reverse. In the automotive world this is normally only on rotating parts like hubs or “centre lock” wheels to stop them working loose - be gentle and she will love you forever 

Righty Tighty!

wrote:

Righty Tighty!

Roger Dodger! 

 

UPDATE:  In the past two weeks, I have heated, shot with penetrating oil, double nutted, Tried the 8mm Stud Removal socket.  BTW,  stud removal socket worked on the non broken stud just fine.  I have steadily gone down a rabbit hole on this situation.  When trying the Stud Removal Socket, the locking roller cams inside would slip.  This was due to me wearing away the stud diameter to where it is less than 8mm.  My next attempt was to re thread the stud to 7mm.  Used 7mm x 1.0 thread.  Not as easy to find 7mm x 1.0 nuts and such but did.  Again, heating & penetrating oil applied between attempts.  Got the double nut to hold but could not budge.  Did not weld the nut due to no welding equipment or experience.  Went to reposition/replace nuts and then discovered the threads were damaged and would not hold.  So, I got the bright idea to see if the 6mm Stud Removal Socket would fit over the stripped down stud.  YES! It slipped down onto the stud, fitting very snug.  Now with added confidence of knowing I have removed the other non broken stud fairly easily, I turned with a bit more power and... I snapped off almost all of the remaining exposed stud.  I know that if I would have simply been thinking straight from the moment I initially over torqued and snapped the stud, I would likely have this out by now.  But I had to start grabbing with vise grips and then re threaded which started reducing the total diameter of the stud.  I probably could have removed with the Stud Removal Socket early on.  All of the attempted turning and reduced thickness also made in my opinion a soft steel stud that much weaker resulting in the second break.  

So now, I have drilled a tap hole very close to center of the stud.  I have this final fantasy of tapping slightly smaller than the 8mm hole and removing what is left of the original stud in pieces.  My main concern is that I will damage the threads in the fork leg.  This would then force me to either use a thread insert or just replace the fork leg.  I really like my fork legs and have Race Tech springs and the fork oil set up really nice.  I suppose a swap to another fork leg and rebuilding both forks is in cards if this stud replacement goes completely bad.  I am really kicking myself for what I have done.  A momentary lapse in sound judgement followed by hasty choices to extract have resulted in countless $$$ and hours of frustration.  
Any suggestions are welcome.  However, if any of you suggest I weld my toolbox shut, remember, I do not have any welding equipment.  You will need to bring yours over and do it for me.    ...Please.  

Hi Forest, did I mention those sockets have a good grip   if your drill hole is close to centre then you can drill to 7mm then carefully with a pin punch collapse the remains of the broken stud towards the middle (take your time and be accurate) with the debris out you can then drill to 8mm and insert a helicoil (I would think a basic kit would be around $20) MAKE SURE THE DEBRIS IS OUT BEFORE DRILLING TO 8mm (the steel debris will kick the drill into the softer alloy) It's a bit of a faff but not a lot of cash to save the leg

I have used Wookie58’s technique before. It does work. There are shops that will electrically burn out the broken stud. I did a search and come up with “MDM” process but that doesn’t sound like what I have heard in the past. If you have it drilled out have you tried Left Handed bits?