KZ440-A2: Electrics are dead

Make sure you cut that white wire back to "clean copper" the green corrosion will continue and give you problems. Also stop measuring "ohms" voltdrop is a more accurate diagnosis of resistance faults (check out my fault finding guide in the FAQ section)

Jimbo68 wrote:

(the best I could find to hand to offer a sense of scale was an old toothbrush!).
 

I keep toothbrushes around the shop as well: they're great for scrubbing small oily bits.

Hi folks.

I’ve sorted the 2 connections and tested the following. Still no electrics. 

battery is 12.9V
red/white from 20A fuse connects ok to +ve battery terminal
White from 20A fuse connects ok to White on 4P connector leading to ignition switch
Red/blue from ignition switch 4P connector connects ok to 10A fuse

the ignition switch in the On position still checks out ok. 

im stumped. Any suggestions please? 

check the following:

key on
ignition on
engine not running
Meter on DC V

red probe positive battery terminal
black probe negative battery terminal
note voltage

do not disconnect the connectors--you will have to back probe the connectors to get your readings

move red probe to each fuse measure both sides..list voltages
red wire-red wire
red/blue wire-brown wire
blue wire-blue/white wire

And Warren3200gt's ground wire---
There is a black wire with a yellow stripe that connects to the negative terminal on the battery.
That ground controls a lot of the bike's functions
It should have a bullet connector on it close to the battery(pink circle).
Leave the bullet connector connected and back probe the connector with the red probe.
Reading should be a steady 0.0V.


 

Thank you.

responses in line below.

check the following:

key on
ignition on
engine not running
Meter on DC V

red probe positive battery terminal
black probe negative battery terminal
note voltage: 13.2v (I charged the battery again in the past 15 minutes. My previous post mentioned 12.9v)

do not disconnect the connectors--you will have to back probe the connectors to get your readings

move red probe to each fuse measure both sides..list voltages
red wire-red wire BOTH 13.2V. I DIDN’T REMOVE ANY OF THE FUSES. CORRECT?
red/blue wire-brown wire: both 13.2V
blue wire-blue/white wire: both 13.2V

And Warren3200gt's ground wire---
There is a black wire with a yellow stripe that connects to the negative terminal on the battery.
That ground controls a lot of the bike's functions
It should have a bullet connector on it close to the battery(pink circle).
Leave the bullet connector connected and back probe the connector with the red probe.
Reading should be a steady 0.0V. IM NOT SURE WHAT YOU MEAN, apologies. If I remove the red probe from the battery and use it, where should the black probe be connected? I’m also unsure what ‘back probe’ means? If the bullet remains connected, see photo, how do I get the multimeter probe to touch the metal?

slide the red probe under the clear rubber so it can contact the bullet connector.
backprobing means you leave the connector connected and you insert the probe in from the back.
Either of the pink arrows will work--it doesn't matter which side.
Your red probe should be able to touch the metal of the bullet conductor inside.

black probe stays on negative battery terminal

 
 

Thank you. 

yes, steady at 0.00V. 

Are the voltage readings at the fuses as expected please, in my previous reply?

 

Your fuse voltages are good except there is no voltage drop on them.
This means nothing is using power.
If you turn a light on, the voltage will drop slightly to maybe 13.0v.
Your voltage is steady at 13.2 at the battery and the fuses which means nothing is on.
But it is good that your fuses are getting power now.

Inside your headlight bucket will be a 4 wire connector.
brown wire
red wire
white wire
red/blue wire

key on
ignition switch to "run"
meter DC V
all connectors connected

Backprobe the above connector
black probe on negative terminal
use red probe to check each wire on the green arrow side of the connector.



 

check this connector as well with the red probe(it should be in the headlight bucket also)
red wire
red/yellow wire
black wire----push starter button while checking voltage here--should go from 0.0v to around 13.0v when you push button
red/white wire

You should have battery voltage at all of the points. 13.2v or close

I'll be driving so I may not get to respond for a couple of hours.



 

No voltage on any of the ignition switch wires. 

I repeated it with a paper clip, just in case I wasn’t making contact. The depth of the connector is quite long. 

 

Thanks. 

No such 4P connector for the  starter button, etc, on my bike 
 

I noticed when testing the voltage at the fuses that with the ignition OFF, the two 10a fuses remained at 13v. Only the 20A fuse dropped to 0V. 

is that expected?