KZ440-A2: Electrics are dead

Hi forum. 

My bike has no electricity when switching on the ignition. 

The battery charge is 13.1V. There was a small build up of sulphate on the negative terminal. I removed the battery, cleaned off the deposit with a toothbrush and wiped it down, checked the charge with my battery charger: All good. Cleaned cable ends, reconnected the battery. Charge still the same. Checked end to end connectivity of battery cables: all good. 

I checked the ignition switch and verified the the connections have 0 ohms per the information in the attached table, and checked for shorts: all good. 

I checked the 3 fuses in the box behind the RHS cover: all good. In the wiring diagram, I see two other fuses - Where are they please? I can’t find their location in the service manual. 

If not the two fuses I can’t find, I’m a bit stumped. Any help appreciated please. 

One thing to mention - the ignition key got slightly bent when opening the fuel cap. I straightened it in a vice and it is ok again. Given the switch turns and the connections both when off and on appear ok, I think this is unrelated to my issue. 

put your meter on DC V
key on
ignition on
engine not running

Red probe on positive terminal of battery(terminal is the metal part of the battery)
Black probe on negative terminal
Note voltage to the tenth decimal place(ex 12.6v)

move Red probe to each fuse.
measure bothe sides of each fuse.
You should have 6 readings.
What are they?

Move Red probe to engine case.
Note voltage (the voltage here should be as close to a steady 0.0v as possible. 0.6v and above means you have high resistance in your ground from your engine case to your battery. If the numbers jump around rapidly and not steady, that means your ground to the engine case is disconnected. This is called ghost voltage.

turn off bike.

Thanks.

replies in line below. 

Red probe on positive terminal of battery(terminal is the metal part of the battery)
Black probe on negative terminal
Note voltage to the tenth decimal place(ex 12.6v) VOLTAGE 13.03v

move Red probe to each fuse.
measure bothe sides of each fuse.
You should have 6 readings.
What are they? ALL FUSES 0.00

Move Red probe to engine case.
Note voltage (the voltage here should be as close to a steady 0.0v as possible. 0.6v and above means you have high resistance in your ground from your engine case to your battery. If the numbers jump around rapidly and not steady, that means your ground to the engine case is disconnected. This is called ghost voltage. VOLTAGE: STEADY AT 0.00V

turn off bike.

I would suggest you look here (pink circle) and check the voltage at this point - this feeds the 20amp fuse which in turn feeds the 2 10amp fuses via the ignition switch. If there is no voltage at the 20amp then there won't be anywhere else

 

Yeah, your problem is between the positive terminal and the fuse with the white wire.

Test the point Wookie pointed to with key on, ignition on.
Black probe on negative terminal.
DC V setting on meter

You want to see close to 13.03 v on meter

The fault should lie along the green line.
You could run a jumper wire from the battery's positive terminal to the fuse with the red/white wire.
Touch the jumper wire to the red/white wire side of the fuse not the white wire side(this allows the fuse to protect the circuit).
Your bike should have power at that point.
Turn off bike and disconnect jumper.
Find the fault in the factory wiring.


I just realized something about your wiring ----hold on a second..
 

Thank you. I will do. 

Do you know how I find that point physically to check it please? I’m not sure what that symbol represents, and I’m not sure if you mean the single red/white beneath it, or whether I could check the solid red emerging from the starter relay? 

Hold on a second... I realized something about your wiring.

Someone replaced the white/red wire--white wire fuse with an inline blade fuse holder(green circle).
Follow that thick red wire from that blade fuse holder. One of those two thick red wires should attach to the positive terminal of the battery.

The symbol on the schematic is for a bullet connector joint in the wiring.
Triangle is the male portion
Rectangle the female portion





 

That is an interesting looking joint with the white tape around it !!!!!

Yes, it does. There is a soldered connection under the white tape. Not pretty but it does conduct. Not 0 ohms though. I’ll reconnect it properly tomorrow. I think I’ve found the main problem. The white wire on the other side of the 20A fuse is well-nigh broken. I’ll fix that tomorrow too. for both re-connects, I’d prefer to use a chocolate-box connector than crimp or solder. I can’t figure out the amp rating of the crimps I have, and my soldering is rubbish. I assume the larger of the two choc-box connectors in the picture is better (the best I could find to hand to offer a sense of scale was an old toothbrush!). Do you agree?

Thank you! I thought they might represent transistors. 

No problem!
Let us know tomorrow how it turns out.

Yep, the bigger chocolate box would be better.