Restoration of light switches, etc ...

Thank you very much for your advice, it will surely be of great help to me, I am going to take the test, thanks again.

I only have an "after" image.  But boy, you should have seen it "before".

Did no one else here ever play D&D??

We used to fill in the engraved digits on the dice with crayons. Apply pressure to push the wax down into the text and move the crayon laterally. With practice you can fill in the characters without making a mess. Of course that does depend on the numbers having clear edges.

Like Mikaw said the VHT Rollbar and Chassis Satin Black is a near perfect match to the factory finish. When it comes to painting those little letters I use model car enamels to fill in my letters. The whole trick is to use a real tiny high quality paint brush. I use a 5/0 size brush. It helps to have a real steady hand when it comes to filling in those tiny little letters!!!

 

 

 

Dr… Not sure I’m steady handed to do that. But you are a model guy so your skills are more refined… I’ll stick with dab and wipe method… Grosse motor skills are more my style!

While we’re on this subject…  What the secret tips to restore the red hazard flasher button?

 

 

Is the red color molded in to the button?  Do you have one that you're willing to risk destroying?

I have seen folks use a heat gun to fix black plastic that has turned chalky and gray from UV exposure.  I have no idea if this would work on red plastic, but it seems like the plastic has faded in the same way.


or maybe try some chemicals...

You really have to be careful applying heat, I tried it with my light cluster and it ended up changing my green neutral light to a yellow hue. Extremely ugly considering it was almost otherwise perfect. 

They are through color. Yes I’d risk the left one. It’s pretty bad. Useless as is.

I tried heat also to restore an  inner fender. Fail! It wasn’t doing anything, added a little more heat and wow it seamed to get much more glossy, just as it warped and distorted. 

wrote:

Dr… Not sure I’m steady handed to do that. But you are a model guy so your skills are more refined… I’ll stick with dab and wipe method… Grosse motor skills are more my style!

While we’re on this subject…  What the secret tips to restore the red hazard flasher button?

 

 

 

If the letters are raised or recessed, I would just paint it. Then do the letters in black then clear it.

You have to be careful with the hazard button.  The letters really aren't embossed in the true sense, they are kind of stamped on.  Mine wasn't quite as bad so I just took some Novus Plastic polish and carefully went around the button several times avoiding the letters as much as possible.  It looks better but still not great or like new.  I don't know how you would ever re-apply the letters and have them look good.  I almost bought a used switch just to get a better looking hazard button, but the cost was just too much as they are rather scarce.  Chevrolet used to have a really good cleaner for their plastic body pieces on the Avalanche that always turned whiteish, but it was discontinued when they dropped the line.  It came in a "kit" and it worked really well.  If you can find some it might be worthwhile, but the stuff would be pretty old by now.

Rick H.

I’ll have to look into the letters. . Just a thought, with today’s printing advances, might someone be able to duplicate the lettering on a clear medium? Then the button could be buffed, painted whatever and apply the new lettering. 

EDIT, Could be clear coated to extend the life of the graphics

It was in this thread that crashomon informed us of Loudhvx's passing this past February. I've moved those posts to a new thread with the same subject line in the 'Fallen Riders' forum.
Lou will be missed and not forgotten!
Bill