Restoration of light switches, etc ...

Hello, I am restoring a 1977 kawasaki kz650B and I have noticed that the paint is deteriorated where the switches are located on the left side of the indicators and the switches on the right side, everything is located on the horn button, etc.
I have thought of painting them again, but I don't know how to paint the engraved letters (LEFT, RIGHT, START, etc.), perhaps with a permanent marker with a very fine tip.
How have you done it? Have you restored these switches or bought new ones, what do you advise me? . Thank you very much.   
 

I have restored a few sets. I picked up this tip from Kidkawie. The paint colors match OEM damn close. The trick is to use wedge shaped makeup sponges and dab the color into the recessed letters. The art comes in the ability to wipe off the excess without taking the color out of the letter. If that happens let the color dry and reapply to the void ares. I use VHT roll bar and chassis and then 2K clear over with a matte clear. 

These still need some color touch up so they have not been clear coated yet.I have noticed the recessed letters are far from perfect in shape and definition so don’t obsess over trying to get perfect letter definition. Go For It. Take pictures of the wiring so you can get it back correctly. The small screws and clamp brackets can be soaked in metal rescue. If they are corroded short soaked in CLR works. Watch the soak times as you can ruin the hardware if soaked in the CLR to long. 

 

Those look really nice!  I've done a few with mixed success.  I've found that they need to be completely stripped and blasted before painting.  I use semi gloss, which is a bit brighter than original.  I have paint sticks for the insets.  Then I laquer them.

You want to watch the pressure when blasting. I went with a bit too much on my first set and rounded off the edges of the lettering. Made it impossible to get a crisp edge on the letters. For the same reason you want to go easy on the base coat.

looks great!

wrote:

You want to watch the pressure when blasting. I went with a bit too much on my first set and rounded off the edges of the lettering. Made it impossible to get a crisp edge on the letters. For the same reason you want to go easy on the base coat.

Great points. I’m not fortunate enough to have access to a blast cabinet. I use aircraft paint stripper, safe for aluminum. Absolutely correct on the mills of the base coat. I have been heavy handed and had to strip fresh base coat off for the very same situation. 

Did mine on the Z500 Paint is Techcote satin black. the lettering is acrylic Gamboge for the yellow and Titanium for the white. Followed by 2 coats of satin lacquer. the lettering was hand painted by my better half, many thanks Julie

 

Linuxrob. I never noticed an OEM different yellow for left to right. Now you got me thinking. 

It must be the camera i used, flash, no flash? They are painted the same colour.

Thank you very much, what did you use to paint the letters? These letters are so fine that it is difficult to paint them with a brush. Regards, thanks.

What a wonder, because of the photographs they have been perfect, they are like new, the letters have been perfect, very good work, congratulations !!!
Thank you very much everyone for your comments, as always they are very helpful to me, thank you.

Make life easy for yourself. To paint the satin black use whatever cellulose spray can takes your fancy. When dry paint all the lettering with white enamel model paint. You don't need to be particularly cafeful as when it's tacky use enamel thinners on a kitchen towel pad and wipe the letters over. Any paint in the recess's will remain and wipe off of the black as enamel thinners won't affect cellulose black. Once the white is dry repeat with yellow/red as desired. Putting the white down first will make the yellow/red stand out much brighter and true to the correct colour.