Trike Light Question

Hi Bill, Slayer61 is on the money with the relay set up however you may find the attached layout easier. You are dealing with small currents so you can simply loop terminals 30 & 87 on the back of the relay. That way the only additional wiring will be the grounds for the relays and looping in the second stop light. There are however a couple of things to look out for

1. you will need to swop out the flasher relay for one that isn't current sensitive as you are using LED lights (stock autoparts store item for trailer towing etc)
2. The original stop light was 21w so pulled 1.75amps. Whilst LED's pull smaller current you are now driving two lamps instead of one so it is worth checking how much current they draw together to be sure you don't overload the wiring. If the lamp manufacturer can't give you this information you could hook them up on the bench and measure the current draw with a multimeter.

Hi Bill, a quick update on my last post. Both Slayers and my ideas appear to be flawed. Slayer please correct me if I am reading it wrong but your system appears to only operate they rear lamps (not the front turn signals as well) and appears to be an independent toggle switch, not the original handlebar switch which switches the output from the flasher relay so is not a constant 12v ? Mine will work if you are braking or turning but not both at the same time!
I have an idea of a hybrid of the two which will work from the original handlebar switch but it is late now here in the U.K. so I will put a diagram together tomorrow when I have time to look at the wiring diagram for this bike if you think that would be useful

Hi Bill
Ok this one had me scratching my head for a bit, in Europe all turn signals have to be amber so we don't have these combined systems. It can be done but is complex (multiple relays and wiring changes) to work from the factory switch. This made me think how is it done on early American muscle cars?
Good news, if you look at the attached there is an off the shelf solution available in the states for $15 which needs minimal wiring work as it uses the original turn signal and stop light wiring.
PS: you will still need to swop out the mechanical flasher relay as per my original post. Be lucky

wrote:

Hi Bill, a quick update on my last post. Both Slayers and my ideas appear to be flawed. Slayer please correct me if I am reading it wrong but your system appears to only operate they rear lamps (not the front turn signals as well) and appears to be an independent toggle switch, not the original handlebar switch which switches the output from the flasher relay so is not a constant 12v ? Mine will work if you are braking or turning but not both at the same time!
I have an idea of a hybrid of the two which will work from the original handlebar switch but it is late now here in the U.K. so I will put a diagram together tomorrow when I have time to look at the wiring diagram for this bike if you think that would be useful

Wookie,
   You're absolutely correct. It is a drawing for the rears only. You wouldn't have your front lights co-mingling with your brake lights, now would you? The source for the front turn signals will need to come from the turn signal BEFORE going to the brake/turn relays.

wrote:

Hi Bill
Ok this one had me scratching my head for a bit, in Europe all turn signals have to be amber so we don't have these combined systems. It can be done but is complex (multiple relays and wiring changes) to work from the factory switch. This made me think how is it done on early American muscle cars?
Good news, if you look at the attached there is an off the shelf solution available in the states for $15 which needs minimal wiring work as it uses the original turn signal and stop light wiring.
PS: you will still need to swop out the mechanical flasher relay as per my original post. Be lucky

 

Brilliant! and only $15 to boot! I don't think you could make it for that



www.johnsonssurplus.com/products/hd-tail...ht-converter-5423203

Simple is always good !

K.I.S.S.

To do it with relays, and not have to do any rewiring other than the three wires at the back, you really need 3 relays, and one has to be a double-pole, so not as common as a common, generic automotive relay (if Radio Shack was still a thing, it wouldn't be an issue).  Also, the flasher unit will have to be upgraded from the old thermal version. I recommend the 3-wire type since it is capable of handling a wider range of load types than even an "electronic" 2-wire flasher can handle.

But with LED's and being in the modern age and all, a trailer integrator is probably the easiest way to do it, and may even be cheaper if it comes on a boat from far away.

I've attached a couple designs for academic purposes, but a trailer integrator is the way to go.  One uses transistors instead of relays.  

Some trailer integrators may require going to an "electronic" flasher as well, so be aware of that if it doesn't seem to work correctly.

In my opinion, you really want a flasher that stops after a minute or so.  I use one, and it's reassuring after riding a bunch of highway miles only to find the turn signal switch had been in the left position the whole time. 

Hi loudhvx I have already  posted a link to such a device available in the states for $15 

Yes, I'm aware of that.  I was reinforcing the idea of that being the simplest way to go as I've posted and linked-to here in the past couple decades.  I should have mentioned I was agreeing with your post, though.

As a side note, old American cars had a more complex turn-signal switch and wiring to handle the brake-light and turn integration.

No worries, thanks for the update ref the classic car setup. We don’t have these combined systems in Europe. I had a 68 Camaro in the 80’s but it had been retrofitted with amber turn signals before I bought it 

Thanks Guys,
Your advice has been invaluable and educational!
I started by ordering five relays for $15.00 that I'll not be using, no big deal I learned enough to count it as well spent. In the end I ordered this converter.

www.amazon.com/56130-Non-Powered-2-Wire-...W4LF7HR%2CB0732RN8P2

It'll do everything I need it to. I think.
Bill