1978 Z1-R charging system upgrade

I know this has been covered a few times, but I'm getting old and forget this stuff if I leave it alone for a while. What is the best way to upgrade the charging system on a '78 Z1-R? I get decent output but the blinkers don't work well when the headlight is on. Turn the headlight off and they work like they should. Is the SHINDENGEN SH-775 something that would boost the current going to the battery? Thanks for any help for my old friend.

Have you taken the time to carefully clean all the connections and switches?
Have you tested alternator output?
Tested the battery?
The regulator?
I think it would be better to identify and fix the problem than to randomly replace parts that may be just fine.

Before you make any changes to the bike's charging system.......

Years ago I had the exact same problem with my 1977 KZ650-C1. I read a posting that recommended changing the flasher unit (a little round can under the side cover) to a Tridon/Stant 552 2 prong unit. The new unit was exactly the same size and fit perfectly in the rubber mounting ring. That was more than 15 years ago and it totally corrected the problem. Even when my battery's charge is low the flashers work fine with correct timing. I think the cost was about $4.00. For sure it made me a happy camper! Ed

650ed wrote: Before you make any changes to the bike's charging system.......

Years ago I had the exact same problem with my 1977 KZ650-C1. I read a posting that recommended changing the flasher unit (a little round can under the side cover) to a Tridon/Stant 552 2 prong unit. The new unit was exactly the same size and fit perfectly in the rubber mounting ring. That was more than 15 years ago and it totally corrected the problem. Even when my battery's charge is low the flashers work fine with correct timing. I think the cost was about $4.00. For sure it made me a happy camper! Ed

Hi Ed, long time bud, hope all is well with you. Yessir, I remember changing the flasher on my '78 KZ1000 with an electronic flasher that made all the difference in the world.

TexasKZ: Yessir.

I've replaced the regulators on my KLRs with the SH-775 and have had much stronger charging from those limited systems. If I did this this to my Z1-R, I sure won't be hacking the original system up so as not to put it back to original. :whistle:
My question is for those that have done the SH-775 regulator swap and can give a detailed answer as to how it worked for them on a properly maintained electrical system.

I was using a KZ 1000 R/R and it worked fine for a while but then it wasn't working as well. After all the testing I got two used SH775's and the power went up. I bought the extra to have on hand. The permanent magnet systems are weak to begin with and with age they lose their charging ability. Went with a H4 LED headlight and have all the power I need. In the past I ran a 50/100w headlight and burned up rectifiers and regulators. The charging systems just aren't built to handle the power draw.
Steve

SWest wrote: I was using a KZ 1000 R/R and it worked fine for a while but then it wasn't working as well. After all the testing I got two used SH775's and the power went up. I bought the extra to have on hand. The permanent magnet systems are weak to begin with and with age they lose their charging ability. Went with a H4 LED headlight and have all the power I need. In the past I ran a 50/100w headlight and burned up rectifiers and regulators. The charging systems just aren't built to handle the power draw.

The output of the OEM permanent magnet alternators is fixed (RPMs aside). If the load is increased over the available alternator output, the battery goes dead. If the load is decreased from the available output, the excess current is shunted through the R/R - causing more heat in the R/R which can shorten it's life.

SWest wrote: I was using a KZ 1000 R/R and it worked fine for a while but then it wasn't working as well. After all the testing I got two used SH775's and the power went up. I bought the extra to have on hand. The permanent magnet systems are weak to begin with and with age they lose their charging ability. Went with a H4 LED headlight and have all the power I need. In the past I ran a 50/100w headlight and burned up rectifiers and regulators. The charging systems just aren't built to handle the power draw.
Steve

Thanks for the reply, this is more of what I was looking to hear from real world experience.
The system is working as it should, just like the one on my '78 KZ1000 is. But they are limited with the outdated R/R in this system, I'm sure the 775 has to be beneficial. I don't like the way the stock set up seems to lose so much power over time even with clean connections. Headlight goes dim when the signals flash, or when the brake light is on. Did the 775 help with those issues? I think I am going to go for it, and give it a shot.

cb900f: yessir, that is correct.

When I read cb900f's post I understand him to be saying that the alternator puts out a fixed amount of power. The regulator doesn't add any power...it just feeds the battery what it's given. And when there isn't enough being fed from the alternator then your battery will discharge. And when the alternator provides more power than the bike is consuming the excess gets shunted into the regulator and converted to heat. I've seen his posts before. He has a solid understanding of bike electrics.

If I re-state what he said, your regulator isn't the problem causing your flashers to go dim. Your alternator may be a problem, but as Ed says you might have a problem requiring a much cheaper solution. It is, however your bike and your decision as to how you wish to go about fixing your problem.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationI'm a huge proponent of the SH775 and recommend it highly. It doesn't boost power, but it does manage what power is available better.

It's a SERIES type R/R and differs from the common SHUNT type in that it shuts off current return to your stator and saves it from over heat damage. Basically, the generator produces power which the bike consumes, but there is residual power available which must be managed. With a shunt R/R this extra power is returned to the stator where it's converted to heat. With a series R/R the return power is cut off which protects the stator better.

Be very careful purchasing a SH775 because there are lots of fakes on the market. Only buy one where you can witness SH775 printed on the top fin.

I agree. I only buy the SH775, never bought the copies.