77 kz 1000A1 Loses spark and dies along with lights and button start after 20min

Colecarv wrote: Great thanks alot, i’ll be running the 12 readings in the next couple hours.

And just to be sure the bike is to he shut off, Yeah, no need for the bike to be on. Should I disconnect the battery? No need to disconnect the battery. also should I run the same ohm tests i did before on the stator but with the battery disconnected? Nope, If you disconnected the stator connector, it wouldn't matter.

RECTIFIER TESTING

From within White plug measuring each of the 3 yellow wires on the rectifier Side.

Test set 1: (I found that the black wire coming out of the rectifier was actually disconnected from the (blackYellow) wire. It was hidden snugly under aframe tube. I must have overlooked it on final assembly.)
On with the tests
Black probe on black wire / Red probe on yellow wires 1,2,3:

1: no reading
2: no reading
3: no reading
Reversed:
Red probe on Black Wire/Black probe on yellow wires 1,2,3:
1:no reading
2:no reading
3:no reading

Test set 2:

Red probed to White wire/ Black probe to yellow wires:
1:no reading
2:no reading
3no reading
Reversed:
No readings Either

By no readings i mean that the meter did not change. Could the rectifier be totally fried? Have i messed up with the multi meter ?

Were you measuring the wires coming out of the rectifier and not the other side of the plug going to the alternator?
Was your meter set to ohms?
The rectifier plug needs to be disconnected.

I was probing the white plug that goes directly into the Rectifier (3 yellow wires) i was not measuring the alternator side of the plug. Yes it was disconnected, my meter was on ohms.

I’m going to do the same Tests again today, i’ll pull the batteries on my meter and replace them, i’ll make sure the ohm setting is working by checking resistance on some spare wire before I make the tests again.

Lets see where i screwed up haha

You may not have screwed up.
Put the probes together to verify your meter is behaving.

Meter set to 200 •))) ohm resistance setting.
: works on spare wire, makes a reading a beeps ( so it Works.)

When probes are placed in any orientation~
Example: (black probe on yellow with red probe on white or black wires )
or
(Red probe on yellow with Black probes on white or black wire)

-There is no reading with meter on the 200•))) ohm resistance setting.

However when I turn the meter’s setting dial to OHM 200 ->+- I get readings Around 500 with the Red probe on yellow and the black probe on the white wire. (But not the black wire)
As well as getting a reading near 500 when the Black probe is on yellow and the Red probe is on t he black wire (but not the white wire)

When I turned the Dial to OHM 2000K i got readings close to 1850.

In the manual is states that in order to check Rectifier resistance: The ohm Meter Must be set in either RX1 or Rx10. I started checking the other OHM settings On the dial in order to see if any of them were RX1 or RX10.

I performed the same tests on a second Spare stock rectifier I have and got similar results/readings.

Is my multi meter ill-equipped to perform these Specific tests? I cannot find RX settings in the manual.

I have attached some Photographs of my multi meter and Examples of my probing locations.

(Also I must say, ive been extremely grateful for all the help so f at, when I joined the forum i had no idea how amazing the community would wnd up being in regards to helping out a fellow Z owner. Thankyou)

Your rectifier looks good.
The 2000 ohm setting on your meter has a diode test. That's the triangle with the line going through it symbol.
That's the best setting to test diodes with.
The 500 indicates voltage is flowing. When it shows "1" that means voltage is not flowing.
good job

It's looking like the regulator, but I may have you do some voltage drop tests to verify your wires and connections are good.
Plug everything back together.

bike running
Headlight off if possible..The battery will gradually drain through this process so the fewer loads the better.
Be careful of exhaust fumes
battery charged
meter set to DC V

black meter probe to negative battery post (actual lead part of the battery)
red probe to positive battery post
note voltage
move red meter probe to white wire connector in blue box
note voltage
readings should be the same or very close

Red meter probe on positive battery post
Black meter probe on negative battery post
note voltage
move Black probe to Black wire in the pink box(rectifier wire)
reading should be close to the battery reading above
move Black probe to black wire in green box(regulator ground)
reading should be close to the battery reading above

Okay great.

I’ll re assemble all of the components, this time including the black wire From the rectifier to be plugged into the black/yellow wire of the harness. (Which was discovered to be unplugged yesterday, prior to the tests)

Really!!!!
That wire was disconnected!!!!!


That would be a big issue.
Reconnect that.
Fire the bike up.
meter to DC V
Red meter probe positive battery terminal
Black meter probe negative battery terminal
Bring engine up to 4000 rpm
note voltage

I hooked everything back up.
The lonesome disconnected black wire is now plugged in through the White Rectifier connector as per the Diagram with a ground to frame.

Battery was fully charged on a tender over night, i disconnected the tender leads and hooked up the multimeter to the battery as per your instructions.
Regulator plugged in and grounded to the frame as well.
I got the bike fired up no problem, ran it until warm and The voltage remained at at 13.6 volts.
The bike was set to idle (1100 RPM)
Volts held at 12.6 ish volts.
I revved the bike up to 4000 RPM and the multimeter read at up to 16-17 volts and returned to 13.6 ish at idle.

average voltage dropped 1 or 2 with lights and highbeam on.

The bike at Key shut off had the multi meter read 12.8-13 volts.

But it looks like the battery is now in fact charging?!

yep!
But 17 volts is a little high, but it may be because the battery was really low.
Typically, the voltage maxes around 15v.
I'll read more on it tonight, but yes...your battery is definitely charging now!
Ride it and report back.