gpz550 ignition switch

lol, unfortunately I'm not Australian.

used some Valvoline starter fluid.

tried one time, didnt spray good enough, kinda hard to spray into the carbs from the airbox when the can has no straw nozzle.

second time, tried my best to get a little bit in each carb and it fired up for like a second and a half.

3rd time no luck

this is what the gas looked like from the bowls




not sure if it carried gunk from the drainage lines, or from the bowl, or a bit of both.

what do you think?

Prob a combination of both.

Once it starts, you should be able to keep it idling with periodic spurts of ether into the airbox. But it does take some experience to get it just right.

If it just absolutely won't keep idling, then you might need to do some electrical troubleshooting.

Looking at that rust looks like you might need to clean out your carbs and fuel tank . You need to install those intake manifolds anyways .

yeah I was thinking that too, might as well clean everything out at this point. will make a day out of it tomorrow probably.

as for the starter fluids, how much exactly do you use to get it initially started? I've read some places that it's not so good for engine health, but just what I have read.

Anyways, will probably get up early tomorrow and get to work on the carbs. As long as I keep the carbs together I don't have to re-sync them right?

also if I can get spark, what else electrical should I test?

You would look for steady voltage at the positive side of the coil. And you might check to make sure the igniter is grounded properly... the voltage there should be zero all the time.

so yellow is positive and black/green is negative?

also I should be able to get a voltage reading with just the ignition turned on correct?

thanks, we will figure this out and get her running. I refuse to give up on it

The yellow (maybe with red stripe?) on the coil is positive. It should be steadily the same or nearly the same as the battery voltage. Connect the meter+ to the yellow wire and meter- to the ground of the battery.

The black wire and green wire on the coils will be near battery voltage when the motor is not running, so check it then, but will fluctuate when the crank is turning, (if it's steady near battery here, then there is an igniter/pickup problem).

On the igniter, the larger yellow (or maybe red, or maybe with red stripe) should be near battery voltage all the time just like the coil positive side. The black/yellow stripe wire on the igniter should be near 0v all the time.

All above is done with the meter's black wire (meter-) connected to the battery ground, using the meter's red wire (meter+) as a probe.

will check after the carbs,

how do I wrestle the carbs off. seems like I'm making progress at the same time not.

possible with the airbox on?

You have to loosen the battery box bolts and remove the small brackets holding the airbox. Also loosen anything else that might stop the air box from moving. The airbox stays in place but you have to try to push it rearward as much as possible.

Loosen the carb clamps all the way... Not just loose, but almost off completely. Roll the spring clamps off the boot rings.

Take the tank off. Put bike in center stand. Sit on the seat and put your feet on the ignition housing and alternator housing. Pull back hard on the rack into the airbox and tip the carbs out of the intake. Sometimes I tip up, sometimes down.

Managed to get it off without messing with the battery box.

turns out if you ask it nicely it will just pop out.

my airbox boots are fairly hard. if I manage to clean the carbs today could I reuse them? or should I just order new ones. are the Z1 ENT. ones good?

with ignition switch on. battery will read 12.18 and all of the ignition coil lead will read 11.28 /11.30

the igniter unit connectors will all read 11.20/11.25 while the solid black reads 0.1/0.3

I should mention that I did not have the little insulators for the connecting pins on the ignition coils, so I used heat shrink as substitute.

also used on the ignition coils is tin played copper* 18 gauge (so they say but it's more like 16 gauge) AWG wire.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07G744V5Z/ref=ox...A1P2Y1BEUUWGO2&psc=1

Ive used the airbox boots over . If you heat them up with the wifes blow drier they are easier to work with . But new is always better . If you check out the links in loudhvx sig there's everything you need to now about the carbs . I would suggest installing an in line filter . They make a ton of different ones. This is the one I have in my 550 . Buy 2 and leave one under the seat cause when it clogs up you will be walking . It sure beats cleaning the carbs all the time .

www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/f...IEAkYCiABEgI3qvD_BwE