gpz550 ignition switch

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationlocksmith could make you a key...

Yeah this is the one I need lol. I guess my searching skills are not as good as I thought.

I'm just using it for the wire plate, finding one with the 5 pin connector was difficult

Thanks!!!

Switch came into today, took it apart and cleaned out the abundant of spider mess.

put the new (used) plate in my switch and it's back to working order!

Thanks for for finding that switch for me Mikaw.

So again, I'm no electrician, but could a wire being too long cause an overflow issue? When I soldered my front turn signals on I left the really long because eventually I was going to put a full fairing on it. Other than that I can't think of what caused it. The connector on the starter switch under the side cover is pretty rusty too

Caleator wrote: put the new (used) plate in my switch and it's back to working order!

Thanks for for finding that switch for me Mikaw.

Your welcome... Looks like its in good shape.... The longer length of wire might add a slight amount of resistance but shouldn't be the problem, considering you used similar size wire that was either new or not corroded... I'd be looking for rusted or corroded connections like the starter connection you mentioned... The Best way would be to get a wiring schematic and trace thru all wires related to the circuit of the failed wire in the original plate...

A can of dedicated electrical contact cleaner, like Deoxit D5, will do wonders for those dirty, corroded contacts. Some small brass brushes will help, too.

Excessive wire length will reduce the current, so it's not a problem at all. Also if the wire is shorter than a few meters (or yards) the current difference will not even be able to be measured.

The first switch likely burned because of dirt or vibration. Sometimes grease will cause that too. If the surface area of the contact gets reduced because of dirt or grease or mechanical means, the remaining surface area will have to carry the current and will heat up and start burning the copper and/or grease, which then makes the problem worse until the area gets overheated and starts to melt the wire insulation and finally fail entirely.

I used contact cleaner on the new one, and also on the connections to the starter.

hopefully that helps.

So it happened again, currently stuck on the side of the road.

Ignition switch does nothing.

BUT if I unplug the headlight, the ignition will turn on, BUT as soon as the starter is pressed, the power is lost. The starter switch itself is making the click, so I know that's getting power...

I only have a screwdriver and a set of allen keys on me right now. I opened up the ignition switch and the wiring is not burnt. Haven't taken a look at the switch plate behind it tho.

Fuses look good

I really don't want to have to get another tow. and I JUST got a parking ticket too...

Anything I could try?

Do you know how to bump-start a bike?

Another option is to jumper the yellow to the white wire at the ignition switch plug. That is, unplug the ignition switch. On the harness side, inside the blue plug, try to jumper the white wire to the yellow wire. If that doesn't work, then the problem is not necessarily in the ignition switch.

This will get the bike started, but to ride the bike you will want to unplug the regulator/rectifier since it won't regulate. You will be running ignition only on battery only.

it stopped working entirely now lol, now so bump start might not be an option.

here are the current state of my switch plates

I will not be able to see the photos from work unless you upload directly to kzrider.

If you have some paper clips, you could jumper the white wire to the yellow wire and also the brown wire. That is all three together on the harness end of the blue plug. That will allow for normal motor operation and brake lights.