1980 750H bare bones for mattylight

I found that the blue/red and light green are oil pressure and netural wires. So that question is answered.....

You don't need a kill switch, but if your key switch will be hidden somewhere it may be tricky to kill the motor quickly if you have to.

Are you saying you want to use the new key switch for starting too? If not, then you'll need the start button, and the kill switch is in the same housing, so I'd keep them both. If you do want to start it like a car, then you can eliminate the right hand control switches entirely.

Be warned, though, those cheap key switches in the blister packs at auto parts stores fail very quickly. They are not made well. I've had several friends use them, and they fell apart from vibration after about a season.

I would like to use it like a power on. I have a kill and start switch I can use. I just want to clean the bars up and put the key switch on the outside of the battery box I am making.

I am just not sure what wires go to what on the diagram you made for me go on the ignition I bought.Everything else is very clear.

Sorry...I meant to ask. What color wire goes to which connection on the ignition I bought. Battery, ignition, starter and acc? Thank's.

I hope I am asking the right questions. If it seems like I don't know what I am talking about you are right.

I'll have to make an update on the drawing. Hopefully I'll get a chance today, but it may be very late tonight when I get home.

Thank you very much. I put new connectors and connected everything except for the rear brake lights. Your diagram is very easy to follow. The only problem I am having is the ignition. I cut off all the wires from the old ignition and spliced them per your diagram to the new one. I attached the white wire to the ignition, the brown to acc, the white/black to battery and yellow/red to the starter. Other than that I think it looks pretty good. I can weld but not wire. Thank's again for doing this for me. By the way, thank you for the advise on the cheap ignition. My wife says if I am good I can buy a fancy one.

john8 wrote:

I attached the white wire to the ignition,

The white wire that originally went to the original key switch is where the key switch got its power. So, according to the diagram I'm using, the white wire from the main fuse should go to Batt on the new key switch.



john8 wrote:

the brown to acc,

This should work ok. Brown originally powered many things including the sense line on the regulator. Since it is important for the regulator to get voltage while the bike is running, I'm altering the circuit slightly so the regulator is connected to ignition. This way, a failure on the new key switch won't melt your electrical system. The Acc position will now power the lights only.


john8 wrote:

the white/black to battery

The black/white wire sent power from the ignition switch to the fuse block to power the lighting fuses. (Although, I suspect there may be some error on the factory diagram in this regard). Since there is now only one main fuse, the black/white wire is no longer used. The fuse wire goes to Batt, as mentioned above.


john8 wrote:

yellow/red to the starter.

According to the diagram, the wire to the starter solenoid coil is black. That wire will go to the Start connection. The red/yel wire is no longer used if the kill/start switch are removed.

The wire to the ignition is red, according to the factory diagram. This wire will go to the Ign as will the regulator sense wire as I mentioned above.

In drawing this schematic, I am assuming the configuration of the new key switch as follows:
Batt is 12v power from the main fuse.
Acc routes power from batt to accesories.
Ign routes power from batt to the ignition.
Start routes power from batt to the starter solenoid's coil.

Off position: nothing is connected.
Acc position: Acc is connected to batt.
Run position: Acc and Ign are connected to batt.
Start position: Ign and Start are connected to batt. (This position temporarily removes power from Acc.)

Or, to simplify it, you could just leave the Acc connection unconnected. (Make sure to cover it to prevent shorts because it will have 12v on it.) The lights will come on with the ignition (as it did from the factory).

Here is the simplified version.

EDIT 1/9/2019:
Mattylight Barebones Bare Bones Wiring Diagram
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000J1 using car ignition switch for John8 , version 2
Kz1000J Kz1000 J1 Kz 1000 J1 1000J1 1000J

Thank you very much. I will try this after class today. you are the man.

If I wanted to still keep the start kill switch could I put the yellow/red to brown and red from the coils and black to the black from the starter solenoid?