VM26SS sync questions

Looks good. Don’t stop with the fixes. Have Zed1015 rebuild your choke plungers. Try tightening the clamp on the #1 carb holder, 99% sure a slight air leak is the pop. I chased one for quite a while till I replaces the carb holders with OEM, pop is gone. Or pull the carbs off and apply grease to the od of the carb spigot and slide them back in. Wiggle good it may be just one is a little stressed and not seated good. You’re not going to get a good read on the plugs untill you get a new set or clean up the old ones and do runs and plug chop testing. Research the internet. Mixture is a combined stack up of all items. Pilot, main jet, needle jet, jet needle also the bleed hole in the main jet holder. Each circuit will need to be tested by plug chopping at correct rpm. Black (Dry) sooty plugs are a sign of a rich condition but it’s not always the main. Could be any item below the main adding too much to the over jetting. Carry on!

Mikaw wrote:

Looks good. Don’t stop with the fixes. Have Zed1015 rebuild your choke plungers. Try tightening the clamp on the #1 carb holder, 99% sure a slight air leak is the pop. I chased one for quite a while till I replaces the carb holders with OEM, pop is gone. Or pull the carbs off and apply grease to the od of the carb spigot and slide them back in. Wiggle good it may be just one is a little stressed and not seated good. You’re not going to get a good read on the plugs untill you get a new set or clean up the old ones and do runs and plug chop testing. Research the internet. Mixture is a combined stack up of all items. Pilot, main jet, needle jet, jet needle also the bleed hole in the main jet holder. Each circuit will need to be tested by plug chopping at correct rpm. Black (Dry) sooty plugs are a sign of a rich condition but it’s not always the main. Could be any item below the main adding too much to the over jetting. Carry on!

I like to use washing up liquid (dish soap) on rubber parts, it lubes well but dry's out reducing the risk of things sliding back out at a later date (just my personal preference)

Wookie58 wrote:

I like to use washing up liquid (dish soap) on rubber parts, it lubes well but dry's out reducing the risk of things sliding back out at a later date (just my personal preference)

Just a note to watch Guy, all dishwasher and washing up liquids have a high percentage of salt in them which corrodes ally badly.
Never use it on tubeless ally wheels as a tyre fitting lubricant for example because it'll corrode the rim sealing face and eventually you'll never get it air tight.
 

Will for sure check the clamps on the carb holders. They are OEM(ouch) and new and I did lube them up lightly with the red grease that came with my master cylinder rebuild kit.

 I took my time when going thru the carbs making sure everything was clean and clear, especially the main jet holders. The choke plunger seat doesn’t look bad to me…..but I honestly don’t know what they’re supposed to look like.

Wow, good call Wookie on the carb holder clamps. I know for a fact I tightened them when I put the carbs on, but they were anything but tight as of today.  They are now! Off for a ride. Major thank you for that. I don’t know if I would’ve ever checked that.

motomisfit wrote:

Wow, good call Wookie on the carb holder clamps. I know for a fact I tightened them when I put the carbs on, but they were anything but tight as of today.  They are now! Off for a ride. Major thank you for that. I don’t know if I would’ve ever checked that.

Thanks but I think it's Mikaw you should be thanking. I guess once it was hot the lube was drawn out which is why the clamps loosened off ?

Yes, a big thank you to Mikaw. With the clamps tightened, I took it for a good ride and had to readjust all the air screws. Fortunately, they all are still syncing evenly which doesn’t make sense but I’ll take it.

Well I think I’m at the end of playing with the carbs with the exception of doing the choke plunger mods by Zed. It’s starting quickly when cold and running pretty good at all speeds. It does still pop back thru the #1 carb every so often. And when it’s warming up it’ll pop back thru 1&4 carbs. It’s pretty subtle when warmed up but it does and I don’t know why. It’s almost like the spark is cutting out and then fires back. Dunno

I have the Dyna S system and will be doing that next but will wait for a rainy day as it’s just too darn nice here to not ride every day. 

My #1 plug is still running black. Not as bad as before I synced and adjusted the carbs, but still black and sootier than I’m thinking it should be. Ignition? Choke plungers? I posted a pic of the #1 plunger earlier but I don’t have anything to compare it to. I may do the Dyna system this weekend and see how it runs.

Try adding a relay to the coil supply circuit to ensure a full 12v to the coils.  See Wookie's post  - " Ignition by-pass relay W ".  It has a good schematic and explanation.  I used the Hella relay shown at the bottom of the post, it has a fuse incorporated in it.  Makes the installation much simpler.  I got one from Summit racing.

sf4t7 wrote:

Try adding a relay to the coil supply circuit to ensure a full 12v to the coils.  See Wookie's post  - " Ignition by-pass relay W ".  It has a good schematic and explanation.  I used the Hella relay shown at the bottom of the post, it has a fuse incorporated in it.  Makes the installation much simpler.  I got one from Summit racing.

This is a good suggestion. Put some thought into it and a new “harness” can be made so none of the factory terminals need to be cut. That way if needed in the future it can be restored to OEM 

I’ll be sending my plungers to Zed this weekend and also checking the voltage thru the system as recommended by you guys. Very possible there is a loss at the kill switch. Makes sense. My original coils looked kinda funky where the mounts go into the coil. Will post pics when I get to that.