1983 GPZ1100-A1 Clean Air System Removal

Hello All,

This is my first post on the forums! I am "restoring" (mostly just doing overdo maintenance) my father's 1983 GPZ1100 (DFI). I am located in the Huntsville, AL area. Part of the maintenance needed is the replacement of the fuel lines. As I was replacing the fuel lines, I noticed that the vacuum hoses leading to the Clean Air System were cracked and needed to be replaced as well (just another thing to do ). I realized, though, that the Clean Air System could likely be removed and proceeded to research how to do that. I found this post discussing the removal of the airbox as a whole, but also outlines how to remove the Clean Air System: 
kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/591806-re...air-box-help?start=0

Most things are the same for my bike, except I have a pressure regulator connected to the vacuum line. What should I do about that? Are there any other differences I should be aware of?

Thanks,
Will

I hate to be that guy, but it seems like it would be a lot easier to replace the vacuum hoses than to go to the trouble of removing the clean air system.

The clean air system has no impact on performance.  It's only active on deceleration, and just lets fresh air into the exhaust.  I suppose you might get rid of a small bit of weight.

The most thorough way to remove the air system is to plug the holes in the head above each exhaust port with grub screws.  But I think you need to remove the head to do this?

Going to be doing this on the ZRX this Winter, remove the clean air system.
Saves a bit of weight, and cleans up under the tank.
Has to come off to do a valve clearance check too, which I will be doing.

I've bought block off plates, but you can plug the stock ones, or run a hose between the two.
The air box connection will need to be plugged, as well as any other connections, such as the carbs in the ZRX's case.

Get rid of it. I chased a huge air leak before I got rid of mine. 

The regulator-looking thing is just a vacuum-controlled valve.  Air is allowed into the exhaust ports by default under most conditions, but when you decelerate that would lead to popping in the exhaust, so the air is shut off by that valve during deceleration. It is controlled by vacuum in the intake which is very high during decel. This works fine because the mixture is always lean during deceleration anyway, so you don't need the extra air in the exhaust at that time.  (Same reason why you get popping on decel if you go to a free-flowing exhaust without adjusting the jetting.)

When the vacuum lines leak or the valve gets stuck open, you get big pops in the exhaust during decel.  That is the main symptom when the clean air system fails open.  As the others said, it doesn't affect performance much or at all since it's only affecting the gases after they have left the cylinder.

If it's not working, or you just want to be rid of it, you just have to remove everything and seal off the openings and vacuum lines.

 

Hi WBS,
I would agree with the first response to just replace the existing vacuum lines as they do go to the pressure regulator required for the fuel injection on your bike. You MAY be able to just reroute the vacuum lines from the intake boots to the pressure regulator to do away with the clean air system on the valve covers but I'm not sure if that would change the vacuum and therefore affect the pressure regulator ?