Kawasaki KZ 1000 shim tool

Help
I bought the Kawasaki shim tool and don`t understand how to use it on the intake side. Once the bucket is pushed down and the tool installed, you need to roll the cam lobe up so that you can get the shim out. The cam lobe then runs into the tool at the same time it`s pressing down on the bucket. I have been taught to NEVER rotate the crank / cams backward. But that looks like the only way to make this work.
On the exhaust side, the lobe rotates away from the tool and all is well.
What am I doing wrong?

You'll have to back it up a little. I had one of those years ago until someone else needed it more than me. Been stuck with the bat wing since. I hate it. I'll get one eventually. :whistle:
Steve

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WILLIAM PIPPEN wrote: Help
I bought the Kawasaki shim tool and don`t understand how to use it on the intake side. Once the bucket is pushed down and the tool installed, you need to roll the cam lobe up so that you can get the shim out. The cam lobe then runs into the tool at the same time it`s pressing down on the bucket. I have been taught to NEVER rotate the crank / cams backward. But that looks like the only way to make this work.
On the exhaust side, the lobe rotates away from the tool and all is well.
What am I doing wrong?

Does your tool look like this?

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$50 OUCH. It was $50 in the 70's. :dry:
Steve

Ive always just used a bent screw driver and a home made metal wedge,But hey Im cheap! :woohoo:

Zip ties work for me, I guess I'm cheaper than Plummen.

WILLIAM PIPPEN wrote: Help
... I have been taught to NEVER rotate the crank / cams backward. But that looks like the only way to make this work.
On the exhaust side, the lobe rotates away from the tool and all is well.

It's not a problem to rotate the KZ engines backwards, as you say that's the only way to use the factory tool. You will also have to rotate the engine backwards on the exhaust side as you need to depress the bucket after replacing the shim in order to remove the tool.

I have done this several times with no issues, just remember easy does it.

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swest wrote:
$50 OUCH. It was $50 in the 70's. :dry:
Steve

$50 bucks sounds cheap after seeing these 2 lmao, and $8 for the bat. ..................................Mike

Vroom-vroom!!!

www.z1enterprises.com/product/ZSM001-113
www.z1enterprises.com/product/57001-113
www.z1enterprises.com/product/TU15-0468

The bat wing is a PITA
I had a bent screw driver and a cut and bent spoon. Worked better than that POS.
I'll bight the bullet and buy a REAL one soon.
Steve

Kapahulu wrote: Zip ties work for me, I guess I'm cheaper than Plummen.

Lots of guys on the GS Resources swear by the zip tie method. Personally I use the tool but it's hard to argue with success.

members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/i...lve_tool_zip_tie.pdf

OnkelB wrote:

WILLIAM PIPPEN wrote: Help
... I have been taught to NEVER rotate the crank / cams backward. But that looks like the only way to make this work.
On the exhaust side, the lobe rotates away from the tool and all is well.

It's not a problem to rotate the KZ engines backwards, as you say that's the only way to use the factory tool. You will also have to rotate the engine backwards on the exhaust side as you need to depress the bucket after replacing the shim in order to remove the tool.

I have done this several times with no issues, just remember easy does it.

I don't think there's a problem turning any motor backwards by hand, the reason for turning it in the direction it runs in is to ensure any slack is in the position it would be in when the engine is running, For example setting the timing on bikes where the points run off the cam, if you set the timing rotating the engine backwards, then when going forward the timing would be out due to the play in timing chain, similarly with a distributor any backlash in the gears would have a similar effect.

As long as the cam chain adjuster is working properly and there isn't too much slack in the chain.
Steve