Better than WD-40

I like ZEP 45 also. One product I was turned onto is called 4-way plus from IBS. This stuff works better than ZEP. However like the Zep it to is fairly expensive. I am definately anxious to try the home brew.

This is the stuff I have been using for about 20 years. I have tried all those items that are on the list and none of them work as well as this. This stuff gives you working time but will dry in about one hour or less. this stuff was designed to be used on steel that has been submerged under water for extended periods of time. The bottle costs about $1.25

I have actually been trying this acetone/atf mix out myself. It seems to work fairly well in place of WD, Liquid Wrench, PB and others, but I can't quantify its performace. I do have two observations. I put the stuff in a typical spray bottle, and the acetone is soo volatile that an increase in temperature will cause pressure to build in the sprayer. It leads to the mixture pumping itself out of the bottle through the spray nozzle. Messy! Definantly keep out of the sun. Also, the two liquids appear to be insoluable, so you have to shake well to achieve a colloidial suspension before you spray.

The funny part is that I use a blend of Butyl Alcohol with ATF+4 50/50 when I run out of Rust Buster. The Butyl Alcohol has a lower vapor pressure roughly that of water (actually a bit lower)so it is very safe. The toxic effects of Butyl alcohol are the same as of Ethyl Alcohol. :woohoo:

otakar wrote:

The funny part is that I use a blend of Butyl Alcohol with ATF+4 50/50 when I run out of Rust Buster. The Butyl Alcohol has a lower vapor pressure roughly that of water (actually a bit lower)so it is very safe. The toxic effects of Butyl alcohol are the same as of Ethyl Alcohol. :woohoo:

Your local Dodge dealer must know you well. It sounds like you use all of their chemicals. Does the Butyl Alcohol dissolve the ATF+4?

Actually the Rust buster is made by Gemline which is an Appliance parts manufacturer. YES the Butyl alcohol will dissolve the ATF+4 completely. The reason I use the ATF+4 is because I use it in my Dodge van and also in my front tubes on my bike instead of fork oil. So I have it on hand. The Butyl Alcohol is wondrous stuff. You can poor it in your gas tank and go. No re-jetting required. It has 97% the BTU energy content of Gasoline, unlike other alternative fuels. You should Google it. "Butanol" "N-Butyl-Alcohol" I use it for many things, INCLUDING running it in my bikes. It is the REAL Bio-Fuel of the future. Unlike all the others. Unlike all the other Alcohols, it is non corrosive and non Hygroscopic. Also, I have never been to my local Dodge dealer, since I have bought my Used van from them about six years ago. i have no need for them. :huh:

It just seems to me that you had metioned using the mopar combustion chamber cleaner in another thread. Can you get that stuff at the parts house? (The combustion chamber cleaner.) Good info on the Butyl Alcohol. I'll try to keep that stored in the mental database. I don't blame you for avoiding the dealer. I worked parts at one for a while. Prices are outrageous.

I actually discovered the Mopar combustion chamber cleaner by accident on eBay a few years ago and fell in love with it. There is a Generic version of the same stuff (same formula) made by Valspar. Valspar makes it for them. It is like the old formulation of SeaFoam but in a spray can and it is "foaming". seaFoam was forced to change their formulation a few years back and it is not as good as it used to be. plus SeaFoam is much slower working than this stuff. I also like the Lucas "Fuel system cleaner".

Aha! More good information. Thank you sir.

A couple of other ones I've heard about were olive oil and also just melted candle wax. Neither one worked at all really. They were touted to be "the best" by some mechanic I know, but ended up being urban myths, I guess.

Now I just stick to liquid wrench, which has worked for me forever.

loudhvx wrote:

A couple of other ones I've heard about were olive oil and also just melted candle wax. Neither one worked at all really. They were touted to be "the best" by some mechanic I know, but ended up being urban myths, I guess.

Now I just stick to liquid wrench, which has worked for me forever.

Actually the wax works well. But it is dissolved wax not melted wax. And it is Paraffin and not wax.

rnuse wrote:

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

i use an Acetylene/Oxygen torch. :evil: :evil: