Rebuild of KZ1000J engine

wrote:

wrote:

It is coming together nicely.  Where are you in N Sweden?  I visited Kiruna several times about 20 years ago.  And if you don't mind saying, what is your price for electricity?  Here in BC, Canada I pay about $0.12 per kwhr in $CAD.  Our province is 100% hydro.

HRW that is a killer price, not sure about Sweden but in the UK I am paying $0.55 CAD per kWH so no heat in my garage, just a thick fleece (was -7degree's on Friday) 

Thanks for that info Wookie.  We are experiencing a cold spell right now.  Will go down to -26C tonight and up to -17C tomorrow.  We have a gas fireplace that keeps the house warm down to about -10C.  Electric baseboard heaters for lower temps.  We looked at a heat pump but couldn't justify it at our hydro price.

Jonas, 0.12 $CAD is the total price.  In Canada we have a carbon tax on fossil fuels but it doesn't apply to BC power because it's 100% hydro except in some small isolated communities.  On our natural gas the carbon tax at $2.40 CAD is about half the amount of the gas itself.  BC has large natural gas reserves so NG is not expensive.

Fair point HRM that is some extreme weather, anyway before we de-rail Jonas's build thread have you decided on a colour scheme yet ?

No, Im struggling between keeping it fairly original and painting it black or go for the blue type of color I posted earlier. I also have not decided if that will be a stage 2 thing, or get it painted now during winter/spring. On the plus side with getting it painted soon is that the bike will be pretty much complete by spring. The down side is that I minimum need to lift the tank to retorque the head and also check the valves durign summer or fall. Also some carb balancing and other things which can damage the paint job. The black paint that is on is OK, but I want to have the original gold stripes on it, and dont want to do that on the old paint job.

Things have progressed quite rapidly in the garage over the holiday. I have cleaned a nut, then galvanized it, then implemented it upon the screw it is supposed to be on. I have not torqued it correctly yet (hopefully can manage that before next week):



It came out nice though!

Joking aside, yesterday I bought a soda blasting kit and cleaned the cylinder. Next up is cleaning with paint prep and painting:



Enamel colors is fine directy on aluminium? Or should I get a high temp primer to be safe?

Progress is a bit slow, evenings are dark and cold (and I am lazy) and weekends im mainly spending with family activities (skiing in different ways). Spring is coming closer and next week will see temperatures peaking at 7 c! time to get back on track with the old Z "Dino" (regplate DNO).

The head and cylinder has been painted, after their treatments at the machine shop. I also chamfered the upper edge in the bore with 400 grit, as it was very sharp. I was told this could cause pre detonation.




I cut out wooden supports for the middle pistons, as recommended in the Clymer manual.

Next up is installing the cylinder. My plan is to install the base oem style gasket with a thin layer of Loctite 5922. For the head I also have oem, 2 part gasket with new o rings. Is it good practice to add some liquid gasket to these as well or is it unnecessary when new?
Any other things to pay attention to?

 

This project is looking beautiful.
 
About using sealer on the gaskets and o-rings, I was once advised to install the o-rings dry by a forum guy that knows his stuff.
Opinions may vary, but my preference with the base gasket is the same.  At some point it will be scraped off (likely by me) again.
I had base gasket oil leak issues twice, and figured the old-original stretched out cylinder studs were the culprit.  A set of APE heavy duty cylinder studs solved that for good.

I'd definitely replace the cam chain guides.



 

Thank you!

Yep, all the cam chain stuff has been replaced, even the rubber block on top of the rear chain guide (I dont think that was necessary ).
I installed the o-rings dry, as all the parts for the head. I did however use some permatex no 3 on the base gasket, just on the crank case surface though. Hope it will seal!

I went for 180 deg between the compression ring gaps and 180 between the oil ring gaps, 90 deg between all. Seems as the general consensus here is that they move around anyway. Lowering down the cylinder over the pistons went a bit easier than I had anticipated, I was a bit afraid as I see ring compressors is used here, but I cant see that they help much?





Starting to look muscular again!

Next is the cams. How do you initial align everything and how do you turn a cam if needed to align? (I have the factory and clymes manuals so I know the marks etc, I mean more practically?)

Edit: another question, the gap between the cylinder and head where the chain o-ring is, do you fill that up to avoid getting dirt there that will fall into the cylinders if removing the head again?

Rotate the cranks back about 40 degrees from TDC, put your cams in, line them up them bring .the piston of to TDC.(don't force anything) this will prevent you pulling a cam down out of sync and bending a valve

Am I one tooth off?

 

Jonas_Z1000j wrote:

Am I one tooth off?

  

The arrow should be as close to the gasket face as possible .
If it doesn't line up exact then pick the tooth where it is closest whether that is slightly above or slightly below.
If both teeth are equally distant from the gasket face go for the one below as settlement and chain wear will always bring the mark towards the correct position.

With mileage, and chain elongation, the line will tend to move up.  That's why it's normally best for the line to point flush or slightly up, above the gasket surface.

For a second reference point, the middle of both notches on the IN/EX cams should be parallel as possible to the gasket surface at TDC.
Your EX cam looks like one tooth too late.

 
 

Thanks for the advices!
I went out and had a look today and Im pretty certain now that its one tooth late as Scirocco said.
Is it possible to adjust this, make it skip, without loosen the cams? I briefly tried but it seems to little room between the head and chain?