1973 Z1 rebuild

I used to use the timing bolt to rotate the engine.....until I broke the timing pin in the end of the crank and had to strip down an engine to have it replaced.  Now, I use the kickshaft to move the engine, and verrry carefully rotate it backwards with the timing bolt.

I've found the Kawasaki tool to be much easier to use than the Motion Pro one.  Each to his own I guess.  

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I've found the Kawasaki tool to be much easier to use than the Motion Pro one.  Each to his own I guess.  

I agree, but you need to get the OEM tool, it has a small v notch were it contacts the bucket. Easy peasy to use. You might want to check the timing on your intake can, looks one tooth off. Both lobes should be flat pointing straight at each other. 

The valves were all lapped and the buckets and shims were randomly put in a container when the head was removed over 20 years ago.
So the clearances on most cylinders are negative.  The problem with the Kawasaki tool is that it uses the notch in the bucket to hold the shim down, so you just cant get the shims out - there is no way you can flip them out of the bucket (particularly if they end up with oil on the underside there is so much suction) and the thinner the shim the more impossible it is.
I will give the lever and crescent tool a go, I watched a youtube video where the guy used this tool - when the tool was holding the bucket down, he used the notch in the bucket to flick the shim out, it seemed to work for him.

watch at about 5.30 min mark
(630) KZ1000 Valve adjustments | Engine Work Part 5 (downloadable form) - YouTube

Maybe something odd with your head but I have never had a problem with the OEM tool. You need to rotate the bucket so the notch in it faces between the cams. The bucket will rotate when being compressed by the cam. Watch the rotation and adjust the notch appropriately so when it rotates under pressure it ends up facing between the cams. Install the tool finger tight on the gasket lip. Rotate the engine the opposite direction and use a small flat blade screwdriver and lift the shim up. Your overthinking this… 

Does your valve tool look like the one pictured here?? Does it also have the the part number stamped into the tool  "57001-113"

I use the factory valve tool along with an awl with a good point on it and a real strong magnet when I used to do valve adjustment on shim on top motors. The awl is the best tool I have found to pop the shim loose from the bucket. The magnet works great to get the shim out. I have been using these very same tools since I started in a Kawasaki dealership way back in 1973!!!! Never had a problem removing any shim from stock Kawasaki shim buckets!!!!!
Also this tool DOES NOT fit into the notch on the bucket. Its made to fit on the outer edge of the shim bucket!!!!

 

 

wrote:

Does your valve tool look like the one pictured here?? Does it also have the the part number stamped into the tool  "57001-113"

I use the factory valve tool along with an awl with a good point on it and a real strong magnet when I used to do valve adjustment on shim on top motors. The awl is the best tool I have found to pop the shim loose from the bucket. The magnet works great to get the shim out. I have been using these very same tools since I started in a Kawasaki dealership way back in 1973!!!! Never had a problem removing any shim from stock Kawasaki shim buckets!!!!!
Also this tool DOES NOT fit into the notch on the bucket. Its made to fit on the outer edge of the shim bucket!!!!

 

 

yes thats the one Im using - I have done 4 of the shims, its just that the 4 that have zero clearance are the ones Im having trouble with - Im thinking the cam has probably pressed the shims into the bucket hard.
I might give it a shot with the pointy scriber and magnet and see if that helps.

Once the cam is backed off and on the base circle you should have at least a 1/4” between the shim and cam. I don’t understand how your having trouble getting the shim out. Zero lash isn’t a factor with the tool in place and the cam rotated. Your just overcoming stiction between the bucket and shim.

Another reason I can think of why the shims are extremely hard to remove. Back before shim under bucket setups they used to modify the shim cavity of the bucket by flowing silver solder into that area of the shim bucket to help keep the shim from being spit out at high RPM's with big cams!! I never seen these buckets up close with that modification done to them. I do know  it was a real pain in the you know where to remove the shims from those buckets!!! Wonder if you have a set of those modified shim buckets in your head..............                                                       

I also use the factory tool for years and never problems. if a shim does not want to come out (oil on underside) i use a thin screwdriver in the notch to pop the shim out.
Work withe patience and care and you will succeed

Thanks for everyone's advice.
4 of the 8 shims are the problem.
So what I did was rotate the bucket cut out from the low side to the high side so I could get at the cutout easier with a small sharp screwdriver.
I couldnt even rotate the bucket it was so tight - had to loosen cam caps to be able to rotate those buckets.
I was able to pry up the shims in the problem ones but they still wouldnt come out - again had to loosen cam caps to be able to pull the shim out.
Had to go down numerous sizes before even getting clearance - so obviously there was constant downward pressure on those valves even with the cam lobe up.
Anyway now have all 8 between .05 and .10 mm - finally   

I have that factory bucket depressing tool. I remove the shims with a magnet pen. For replacing the shims I use a #2 wooden pencil… using a razor blade, I cut the eraser at a 45 degree angle. I scoop up a dob of moly grease and it holds the shim beautifully to work it in place.
Ive used it on all types of engines.
I think my current shim pencil ✏️ is twenty years old.

Anyway now have all 8 between .05 and .10 mm - finally  

  Better is between 0.10 and 0.15 mm!!!