1973 Z1 rebuild

Got a box of bits from Z1 Spares, a new instrument light loom, set of plugs, short throttle cables, kickstart rubber and a crankcase breather.
Hopefully this is the last purchase for the bike, apart from any unforeseen circumstances - of which I am quite sure will happen !

So I install the new light loom, switch on ignition and yes I have a neutral light.  But wait - there is now no oil light 
So I check the 3 other lights, all working.  Switch the high beam bulb around and now there is an oil light.  Looks like one of the new bulbs that came with the loom is dodgy.
Still no horn, despite filing off the powdercoat on handlebar surface of the upper clamps - maybe I need to get rid of the coating on the main triple tree clamp too?
Is there a good cheap and cheerful way to run an earth off the button?


 

wrote:

Got a box of bits from Z1 Spares, a new instrument light loom, set of plugs, short throttle cables, kickstart rubber and a crankcase breather.
Hopefully this is the last purchase for the bike, apart from any unforeseen circumstances - of which I am quite sure will happen !

So I install the new light loom, switch on ignition and yes I have a neutral light.  But wait - there is now no oil light 

So I check the 3 other lights, all working.  Switch the high beam bulb around and now there is an oil light.  Looks like one of the new bulbs that came with the loom is dodgy.
Still no horn, despite filing off the powdercoat on handlebar surface of the upper clamps - maybe I need to get rid of the coating on the main triple tree clamp too?
Is there a good cheap and cheerful way to run an earth off the button?

 

If there is room you could run an earth wire through the sleeve with the rest of the switch wiring and connect here with a small ring terminal. Then connect the other end to a ground under the tank

 

The half circle of the upper steering clamp at the handle bar clamp needs to be bare. Also does the opposing surface of the handle bar clamps. These need to be free of any paint grease, debris so you get a good solid clamp to retain the bars. It’s a safety issue more than a grounding. If you clamp them down on a contaminated surface, and later that contamination gets washed out or is no longer present your clamping force on the bars could be reduced.

I have had a few days off the bike, the Home Secretary decreed that I shall be fixing and painting the ensuite doors after we had a new bathroom window installed.
Anyway that horn has been bugging me, so I took another look.  I hooked up the horn to a battery - yep it works.
Then I thought I better check the brown wire to make sure it has 12 volts with ignition on.  Nope, it does not.
So I look at the wiring diagram, the double brown connector that is unused is in the same feed.  Check the double connector, 12 volts present.
Take the wire from single connector to double connector - the horn works !
All that mucking around and it was that simple 

Chalk it up as a win, we all get tripped up overlooking the basics at times 

I'll guess that you feel like you just drew three cards for a full house, and everyone at the table is in.

Today I finished tidying up the wiring and getting it tucked in the centre of the frame.
Next job was to get the dynamo into the cover and bolt it on (without the starter intermediate gear for now) and get the sprocket on, clutch cable hooked up and cover on - of course my wonderful polishing is now covered in grimey hand prints.
 
Then onto the right side to finish off things and get the kick starter on with a new rubber.
Also clean up the carb rubbers and bolt them on.
 
Polish up the headers and get them bolted on.
 

I just noticed that your head intake boots don't have the port for synchronizing the carbs.  Is that an early head?  

wrote:

I just noticed that your head intake boots don't have the port for synchronizing the carbs.  Is that an early head?  

Those rubbers were supplied and milled to match the ported intakes by the engine builder.  
I'm pretty sure I gave the original ones to him on an exchange basis.

I would think that could cause a tuning issue later down the road.  Is there any other way to vacuum sync the carbs you have?  

The intake boots were milled?  That's interesting.  Do you know why? 

I guess you can do a mechanical synch on the carbs but I don't know how you can ensure they are all at the same iintake pressure.

wrote:

The intake boots were milled?  That's interesting.  Do you know why? 

I guess you can do a mechanical synch on the carbs but I don't know how you can ensure they are all at the same iintake pressure.

The manifolds have been milled to match the ported head (I think this was a hot motor at one time, not sure now ?) you can sync with the below vacum gauge used on sidedraught webbers etc but it is a PITA because you have to read each one individually and note or remember the readings