Who can resist a non runner? The Orson Welles project (1984) Gpz1100 1984

Damn at 58 I am to old to learn new shit, I have stayed away from learning CAD, but now when my daughter has moved out I have to figure this out, thank god for YouTube.

So let’s scan the coke cardboard.



Outline it to a sketch.



Extrude it to form a body.



Fold it up to shape.



What could ever go wrong?
Guess I should keep an extra license plate and rear light in the future for when ever it falls off. 

//A  

You are too modest, that’s some clever stuff you are doing. 

wrote:

If anybody feels like printing their own plugs, here are the Fusion 360 CAD drawings.

Disclaimer: I shall by no means be mistaken for a professional CAD designer, I just try to get shit done.
 

Can you export a STEP file from your CAD tool and share those files?  STEP is a generic 3D format that is much more portable than the native Fusion 360 file.  The native files are nice if someone wants to edit them, but STEP files are nice if you just want to print them.  

 

Right DOHC, I am a total newbie to CAD, have tried for several years but never had the time to get my head around it, as there is a billion different tools, features and ways to work with it.

If the Step format is the universal exchange format, the Step it is.
So here are the plugs as step files.



Last night falling down a YouTube rabbit hole I realized that the model I did yesterday was a rookie beginners errors 1-o-1. So I will hit it again.

/A    

Fusion is a great program. I think one of the hardest things to learn in the beginning is the nomenclature so you know what to search for when you get stuck, if you don't know what a command is called its difficult to search for it. I use CAD all the time to work through problems and experiment with designs even if i plan on making the parts by hand - its an invaluable tool for us onsie-twosie guys

I am all with you Doc, it wonderful to try first and make later and especially as one now can test print the stuff before actually fabricating in Alu or Steel.

What I find hardest is to figure out how to draw and what tool to use as one can reach the goal by so many different paths using different tools.

Shall you try to model in 3-D right away or shall you use the sheet metal way and draw it flat and then fold it up. Different problems require different paths and tools and I realize that it comes with experience. But this time I have I will learn to master this come hell or . . . . . 

First print-ot with verry ruff settings in half scale, show areas for improvements 

 

Well I do need to work on my 3D printing skills for sure, haven’t really been able to get it right. But I got the rims back from paint and could finish the dry build of the fork and the swingarm/rear wheel.


The Zephyr 1100 fork with a ZR750 rim, Zephyr 1100 310mm brake discs and GSX-R 600 calipers fits like a charm. Rear wheel also lined right up and I need to shave of 8mm from the cush drive to get the chain to run strait. So then it was time to get the engine out of the frame and started with the lover front engine bolt.
Of some strange reason it’s fitted from the wrong side but that was not the problem, the bolt was stuck in the steel sleeves of the rubber mounts. Knock it, turn it noting happened except that the engine mounts started to rotate in the engine block.
Tried to knock it back an fourth and soaking it with penetrating oil, knocked harder and the engine mounts started to come out, but because the bolt was fitted from the wrong side there was no way in hell to get the engine mount to pass the bracket in the frame.


Went and borrowed the heavy artillery, the mother of all induction heater.


Heated, knocked, heated hit it, nothing, heated until the bolt was almost white and the rubber mounts on fire, still nothing.


So sadly I had to revert to sawing of the engine bolt with a lose hacksaw blade. Right it took three hours until I had sawed off the stupid bolt. Funny that the only hard bolt made in Japan had to be in my lower engine mount and the ergonomics left a lot to ask for when I was jacking back and forth with the blade,


There was no way to get in there with an angle grinder without risking hitting the engine case or the frame. Then I had to give up and return the Induction heater and came back the next weekend and continued.


As you can see, me my stupid mutt had not only sawed it of once, but almost twice as I had turned the bolt. The other mounts was no problems at all, they were not stuck at all.After making sure that all bolts were free, I lay the bike down, 


Took of the front fork and the rear wheel off.


Lifted the frame off and the engine was out.


Striped the last little bits and the frame is now ready for welding on the bracket for the brake torque rod and then sandblasting and paint.


//A       

It's all part of the fun working on 40 year old vehicles still, looks like it was the last obstacle  Making great progress with donor parts that look to gell together

Ouch!  Sorry it took you down the hard path to remove! 

After spending most of the last season trying to get my buddies CB750F RC04 to run correctly, messing with the Kehin VB41 carburetors that I had never tinkered with before, sorting out all kinds of little gremlins, air leaks, overflowing in the end to low float levels resulting in a much to lean mixture that sent the idle through the roof, making me wonder if I still had air leaks . Then trying to correct the float heights with the non adjustable floats (no adjustable tang on the fuckers), finally I gave in and ordered a set of aftermarket Chinesium knock-offs on Ebay and got it right.

So I haven’t really got around continuing on the Gpz1100.But yesterday I went and picked up the newly painted frame, so finally the buildup can begin.
Really pleased with the blasting and paintwork.



//A