Starting a rusty '82 KZ750

Tvag06 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: Or a loose rear axle

I think the castle nut needs some tightening. Thanks!

that did it

Hooray for a cheap and easy fix. Thankfully you found that before it became a catastrophic problem.

Catastrophe is not desired. The nut was tight with a pin in it but not torqued to 100lbs. I've ventured out about 2 miles in town. Want to be sure she's 100% before I have all my trust in her. Ride, inspect... Ride, inspect... Ride, inspect...

You may still need wheel bearings.
Steve

SWest wrote: You may still need wheel bearings.
Steve

Thanks Steve. I'll keep an eye on it but I think it was the castle bolt. I just didn't tighten it down enough, not hardly.

Back to my carbs and the idling. I've got my air mixture screws turned out 2 turns and have not yet covered them with a welch cap. Right now I simply placed some of that poster putty over them to keep it sealed. Will adjusting the screws more than 2 turns provide a more rich fuel mix? Can this assist me in maintaining a steady idle at cold start and when warm? At what increments should I turn them out when testing? 1/4 turn? 1/2 turn?

As always thanks for your help.

Basic process is to warm up the engine and then adjust the pilot screws until you achieve the highest idle speed. Should be in the range of 2.5 turns open from lightly seated. If there isn't a whole lot of idle speed change with turning out the screws target 2.5 turns open. And yes, more open is richer.

Nessism wrote: Basic process is to warm up the engine and then adjust the pilot screws until you achieve the highest idle speed. Should be in the range of 2.5 turns open from lightly seated. If there isn't a whole lot of idle speed change with turning out the screws target 2.5 turns open. And yes, more open is richer.

Great thanks. I'm at 2 turns out currently. When I achieve optimal performance, what do I plug the cavity with? Please don't say metal welch cap. There must be something less perminent right??

You dont plug them or cover them.
US models came with metal cap over the screws to prevent adjustment - clean air laws ?. UK and Canada did not

JR wrote: You dont plug them or cover them.
US models came with metal cap over the screws to prevent adjustment - clean air laws ?. UK and Canada did not

Even better. : ) Will adjust screws tonight after work.

The factory cap was (as mentioned) to eliminate tampering, but it also keeps water out. Corrosion of those screws is a very real problem. I recommend packing the cavity with some heavy grease.

Made the adjustments to the air mix screws. Settled on 2.5 turns out. Idle seems easier coming and needs no adjustment whether cold or hot. Thx guys.

Took a spin around the block without a helmet to see what I could hear. The chain sounds a bit loud. Going to increase the tension and lessen the play. From what I understand when pushing up on the chain from beneath it should only travel about an inch, correct?

Twenty five to thirty millimeters (1-1 1/4 inch) is pretty typical. Check your operator's or factory service manual to be sure. Also check for the correct procedure. Some require the rear wheel off the ground, while others require both wheels on the ground. I seem to remember one that required the rider to be on board. Some guys will argue that looser is better.
ymmv