New rebuild after 10 years "deep sleep" mode

Yes Wookie, this was the basic requirement to get it street legal.
The technical approval and permitment (TÜV) here in Germany is nessesay for the bike licence and insurance.

Forget to mention, my "new" TRW brake disks for the front wheel arrived today also.

 

Some more wrenching time today.
Bike is rolling on his new wheels and riding high should be okay for now.
Final adjustment will be done with new spacer and rear axle (20 mm) sleeve for the inner wheel bearing races (28 mm).
New break disk installed, caliper alignment perfect but need an adjustment in the high, due to the disk diameter (GSXR 1000 K5 310 mm / ZX9-R 320 mm).

 
 
 
 

I'm undecided, so i have to ask the forum, what engine/power upgrade should i go?
The GPZ 1100 UT (ZX1100A) injected or RS34 carb GSXR 1100 oil cooled engine?
You all can decide about the next step in my built progress......

 
 
 
 

I vote for Kawasaki power.

I´m too TexasKZ , GSXR1100 146 hp, so 25 hp less (120 hp is enough) and closer to the classic stock optic and shape.
The injection part only is my challenge i have to get over. All parts are multiple time in my shed, so i give it a try.
But first i have to finish the frame work.........

GPZ1100 with RS34's (a 40 year old injection system is likely to be troublesome) and a little work would make "close to" GSXR power and "keep it in the family)

My vote:  Use the Kaw 1100 and convert to carbs

I found this information the other day on the kz1000r.com web site for ELR bikes. It is in the "bike of the month" section and mentions a engine build where Larry Cavanaugh ported the head (several examples listed) but this one had a very detailed parts list and dyno numbers.



I think you would be over 130 RWHP by incorporating RS34's instead of CR33's and boosting capacity to 1170cc. The head is mentioned as being ported and big valved (not stock) probably a Stage 1 port job. There is still a lot of information on the Cavanugh Racing Heads Facebook site.

Hope this helps.

PS: I am with Wookie on the old injection stuff, GPZ throttle bodies are great but the wiring and ECU could become problematic. The other alternative is modern ECU and a custom harness, which is a ton of work. Just look at any DFI conversion on here, including my own, they rarely are completed.

Did some time on the lathe and have to modify the rear sprocket hub and wheel hub spacer, to get the correct chain alignment.
What´s the best way to shorten the rubber damper elements?

I use to work in Automotive doing engine mount design for part molds, so I have worked quite a bit cutting rubber for prototype purposes.

The only way to cut rubber very accurate is with a water jet machine but you must be able to clamp it rigidly.

You can cut it by hand but generally this is only good for +/- 1 mm.

It is best to mark the part as accurate as you can then cut close with a band saw or hacksaw (safer with second choice) then finish to size on a belt sander. The hardest part is clamping it for cutting, grinding it on a belt sander is messy but if you have a big enough piece to hold there should not be any issues.

I can't stress enough how dangerous it can be to cut rubber, I have seen some nasty at work accidents. The stuff is just so unpredictable and hard to hold, if you can get by with just grinding it that is the safest option.

Is there a way to turn them down on the lathe?

Scirocco wrote:

Had forgotten to update my new D&G clutch release mount kit pics too.

Hey Scirocco, I made a clutch release plate like the one you have mounted. I have it mounted on the same bolt holes as yours (it was your pics that I fabricated it from). Could you tell me the length of the spacers and bolts that came in the kit? I don't know how far the plate has to be away from the sprocket. I did the ZX9 hydraulic clutch conversion also. Now I just need to get a starting point for distance from the sprocket. Thanks.