KZ1000 P5

Hi, I am a combat medic. I have wanted to ride since deploying to Iraq. I finally bought an old police bike. I paid a guy to work on the motor, he called demanding 100.00 dollars and more on completion than we agreed. I told him no so he brought my motor back in pieces and kept my manual. I can not get a hold of him or get him in my sights. I have been putting off getting into the motor thinking it was over my head, I was not wrong. The valves are jacked they are actually deformed the cam chain was down in the lower portion of the motor. I will be attaching photos later this week. I have rotated the motor some attempting to get the jugs back on. I placed new rings on and gaskets but since I did not take it apart I have no clue how to get it back together. I have bought another manual, I think I forgot to place some parts on while reassembling the top. I think there are two cam chain guides one on exhaust side and one on the intake side. If ya'll could stay tuned for pictures and point me in the right direction before I jack it up even more, that would be great. I am running out of money and I have been out of patients.

First off Thank you for your service to our Country
Next Post some pictures and stop assemble until you get a manual.
You don't mention where you are located as maybe we have a member near you who might be willing to help get you on the right track.
Best wishes trooper
Dave

You want to get that chain free before you put the head back on. I would at least drop the pan to see what may be in there.
Lots of slugs around.
Location and pics will help getting this sorted out.
Yes and thank you.
Steve

X-mil myself. The KZP's are a fun platform to play with. I have to say they are generally beatin but not defeated. Too bad with the douche mechie you ran across. Like Martin said get a Kawaka manual BEFORE you continue. Its the SOP for any or all of the these.

I ordered a part from Z1 and it was on back order, I ended up ordering it from another source. They sent me a Clymer manual instead and Jeff spoke with me for a bit. I have order several items from them now. What a great company to do business with. There is 99,999 mile on the Odie, I have come to the conclusion that this is going to be a long term relationship and like my wife it will have it's ups and downs, but if ain't broke don't fix it and even if it is broke some times it is better to look the other way. Does this fender make my wheel look big? I keep buying little things here and there, but I am at the point where I just want to ride. I should do a clutch kit, cam bearings, valves, and the list goes on also like my wife and my head is starting to hurt I think I will go tinker with my wife my motorcycle is on the rag, in the gas tank where a gas cap should be...so many warning signs and I just kept telling myself it is 900.00 and I can ride. I feel like my soldiers that came into sick call and would tell me that their junk was burning after a similar bad decision.

Some pics would help.
Steve

Knightmares wrote: I ordered a part from Z1 and it was on back order, I ended up ordering it from another source. They sent me a Clymer manual instead and Jeff spoke with me for a bit. I have order several items from them now. What a great company to do business with. There is 99,999 mile on the Odie, I have come to the conclusion that this is going to be a long term relationship and like my wife it will have it's ups and downs, but if ain't broke don't fix it and even if it is broke some times it is better to look the other way. Does this fender make my wheel look big? I keep buying little things here and there, but I am at the point where I just want to ride. I should do a clutch kit, cam bearings, valves, and the list goes on also like my wife and my head is starting to hurt I think I will go tinker with my wife my motorcycle is on the rag, in the gas tank where a gas cap should be...so many warning signs and I just kept telling myself it is 900.00 and I can ride. I feel like my soldiers that came into sick call and would tell me that their junk was burning after a similar bad decision.

Wow. That's a lot of miles. It's indeed going to be a lot of work if you're serious about it.

Once you have it basically running, the first thing you should do is lube the ignition advance mechanism, torque the cylinder head nuts, and adjust the valve clearances. WARNING: The torque figure for the cam caps (which you'll need to remove if you replace those bearings) is NOT 12ft/lbs like the manual says. That torque will break/strip them. A correct value is more like 6ft/lbs (opinion on the exact value varies). WARNING: Remove the cam chain tensioner spring and cross wedge before tightening down the valve cover and don't forget to re-install it afterwards, otherwise you'll stretch out the cam chain and maybe break something) Put some miles on it and then check the compression. This will give you some idea of how badly the valves and/or cylinders need attention (at that many miles I think it's due to be on the 2nd oversize piston at least, but knowing these bikes it's probably still got the standard pistons and the head has never even been off). If the compression is OK (anything above ~100PSI cold should run OK, not great, but OK).

The oversize pistons and rings are pretty hard to come by and expensive so most people end up going with an aftermarket big-bore kit of some kind (upgrade to 1075CC for the same cost as 1st oversize? why not!), but then you end up going down the path of having to upgrade everything else with drag bike parts.

jackleberry wrote:

Knightmares wrote:
Wow. That's a lot of miles. It's indeed going to be a lot of work if you're serious about it.

Once you have it basically running, the first thing you should do is lube the ignition advance mechanism, torque the cylinder head nuts, and adjust the valve clearances. WARNING: The torque figure for the cam caps (which you'll need to remove if you replace those bearings) is NOT 12ft/lbs like the manual says. That torque will break/strip them. A correct value is more like 6ft/lbs (opinion on the exact value varies). WARNING: Remove the cam chain tensioner spring and cross wedge before tightening down the valve cover and don't forget to re-install it afterwards, otherwise you'll stretch out the cam chain and maybe break something)
The oversize pistons and rings are pretty hard to come by and expensive so most people end up going with an aftermarket big-bore kit of some kind (upgrade to 1075CC for the same cost as 1st oversize? why not!), but then you end up going down the path of having to upgrade everything else with drag bike parts.

... What are you talking about with respect to the cam chain tensioner, cross wedge and cam cover? Also, I don't think that extra 60cc will require any significant upgrade or beefing up parts as in , "drag bike parts".

Knightmares wrote: I ordered a part from Z1 and it was on back order, I ended up ordering it from another source. They sent me a Clymer manual instead and Jeff spoke with me for a bit. I have order several items from them now. What a great company to do business with. There is 99,999 mile on the Odie, I have come to the conclusion that this is going to be a long term relationship and like my wife it will have it's ups and downs, but if ain't broke don't fix it and even if it is broke some times it is better to look the other way. Does this fender make my wheel look big? I keep buying little things here and there, but I am at the point where I just want to ride. I should do a clutch kit, cam bearings, valves, and the list goes on also like my wife and my head is starting to hurt I think I will go tinker with my wife my motorcycle is on the rag, in the gas tank where a gas cap should be...so many warning signs and I just kept telling myself it is 900.00 and I can ride. I feel like my soldiers that came into sick call and would tell me that their junk was burning after a similar bad decision.

www.worldofpowersports.com/

Yea welcome to the KZP suck. I don't care the cost for me anyway. Its therapy to play with it and then ride it.
I got my manual and supplement most rikitik from these dudes. They used to take Military Star card but nojoy.

jackleberry wrote:

Knightmares wrote:
Wow. That's a lot of miles. It's indeed going to be a lot of work if you're serious about it.

Once you have it basically running, the first thing you should do is lube the ignition advance mechanism, torque the cylinder head nuts, and adjust the valve clearances. WARNING: The torque figure for the cam caps (which you'll need to remove if you replace those bearings) is NOT 12ft/lbs like the manual says. That torque will break/strip them. A correct value is more like 6ft/lbs (opinion on the exact value varies). WARNING: Remove the cam chain tensioner spring and cross wedge before tightening down the valve cover and don't forget to re-install it afterwards, otherwise you'll stretch out the cam chain and maybe break something)
The oversize pistons and rings are pretty hard to come by and expensive so most people end up going with an aftermarket big-bore kit of some kind (upgrade to 1075CC for the same cost as 1st oversize? why not!), but then you end up going down the path of having to upgrade everything else with drag bike parts.

... What are you talking about with respect to the cam chain tensioner, cross wedge and cam cover? Also, I don't think that extra 60cc will require any significant upgrade or beefing up parts as in , "drag bike parts".

On these motors there's a cam chain guide in the valve cover which places additional tension on the chain, so if you remove the cover without disabling the automatic tensioner, it will take up that slack, then when you put the cover back on, it will either strip the threads out, stretch the chain, break something, or all of the above. The warning is in the manual too, but it's always worth repeating.

From what I hear people need an oil cooler at least for street riding a big bore KZ1000. Hell, they could use an old cooler stock. Old Kaw Man breaks it all down on his website.

Replaced my auto tensioner with a APE manual. All better now.

"On these motors there's a cam chain guide in the valve cover which places additional tension on the chain, so if you remove the cover without disabling the automatic tensioner, it will take up that slack, then when you put the cover back on, it will either strip the threads out, stretch the chain, break something, or all of the above. The warning is in the manual too, but it's always worth repeating.

From what I hear people need an oil cooler at least for street riding a big bore KZ1000. Hell, they could use an old cooler stock. Old Kaw Man breaks it all down on his website. "

I didn't know about that with respect to the cam cover....
Yeah I read that on the Old Kaw Man site.
My stock KZ1000 runs nice with no oil cooler.... I have one though and have threatened to install it numerous times.