Saving a 1980 750 twin.

Jesus Doc, is there anything you can't do? I like the red with the white stripe under the tank.

Bowman wrote: Jesus Doc, is there anything you can't do? I like the red with the white stripe under the tank.

Thanks man, I just like trying new things, and I'm willing to risk failure for a lesson.

I like your latest rendering, what about continuing the white stripe along the underside of the side cover? Could have the same lightening effect.

Tusch wrote: I like your latest rendering, what about continuing the white stripe along the underside of the side cover? Could have the same lightening effect.

I tried it but since the stripes are on the complicated side it made everything seem too busy, especially with the emblem. I think this is one of the reasons why Ma Kaw rarely put pinstripes on the side covers, and when they did the pinstripes were very simple.

Personally I think that looks great but I get where you're coming from on how busy it could be.

When I was helping my buddy rebuild that kz650 this summer I donated the factory dual caliper setup I had slated for this build and bought some Brembo P108 calipers.
I'm doing this at the same time as the brakes on my 1000 to try and save some costs on waterjet cutting.

I needed spacers for the disks to allow clearance for the spokes. Really I'm just looking for any excuse to use the rotary table. god I love that thing.

I then drew up a bracket in CAD and laser cut the profile out of .060" acrylic so I could stack them to get the correct spacing. I have the spacing pretty spot on but the bracket sticks out pretty far and will require removal of a lot of material when I mill the plate down. I'm contemplating milling some material off the inside of the caliper mounting bosses on the forks so that I will have space to mount the bracket on the inside of the forks and caliper which is a better solution IMO.

I'm not sure on how to approach milling material off the forks. I think I will first have to mill some material off the side (round part) of the bosses first so I can clamp the fork bottom in the vice securely. Should I indicate off the stanchion tube to ensure I am parallel to the the boss faces? Any tips here on how to accurately remove material off the boss face?

clamp the axle in the lower leg, then clamp the axle in a v-block then clamp the v-block to the table and you should have the fork leg with the caliper mounting pads parallel to the table. a lil test indicator on an indicol will insure that the caliper mounting surfaces are parallel to the table.

hth,
leon

Thanks Leon! That's exactly what i was looking for. How much material do you think i can safely remove from the fork bosses? They seem over engineered. they are currently 30mm thick if i could remove 6mm i think there will be enough room for the caliper mount

heck i wouldn't worry about cutting them in half .
on the back of the fork the braking force is trying to shove them into the leg.

leon

Great. I will get them on the mill this weekend

It's always interesting to see how other people figure things like this out! I use a lot of renshape450 to mock up parts. I have one of those calipers I will be using on an SR500 project.
Nice work.

I threw the forks and triple trees on the mill and clamped the axle in the forks. I then indicated off the axle so that the new caliper boss faces would be perpendicular to the wheel axis. I used paint stripper to remove the paint on the caliper bosses to make sure i was getting accurate readings off them to check against the axle readings. I took off 8mm, and now the mounting brackets can fit on the inside. I used a ball end mill so that the end of the cut would not be a stress raiser.

I finally rounded up the last bits for the carbs. NOS intake rubbers, new aftermarket carb boots, and a member here hooked me up with some trick billet mounts for the carb boots to replace the old plastic ones (Thanks Jon!). I gave them the brushed treatment to match the motor mounts.