My GPz750 Resto-mod (pic heavy)

I set out to finish de-tabbing the lower crossmember today



It seems counterproductive to then make and add back tabs to the lower crossmember, but the original lower suspension and center-stand mounts were in the wrong locations.




Then I tack welded the tab on using my handy dandy jig I made.



I'll fab and tack weld the other lower mount on tomorrow evening I hope.

Later, Doug

Knocked out the other lower tab today.



I also came up with some mock-up adjustable lowering links using an old Zx7 brake stay and some more parts from my 900 build.



Everything looks fairly centered.


Later, Doug

coming right along there sir!

leon

Friggen sweet. It's interesting that the link go from the shock pivot/lever to the frame and not to the swingarm, like on many other bikes..... :side:

Stazi wrote: It's interesting that the link go from the shock pivot/lever to the frame and not to the swingarm, like on many other bikes.....

Yeah. It make changing ride height a little interesting. I think I have a plan though. My "real" adjustable links should be delivered tomorrow.

Later, Doug

I did some brain-storming and came up with an idea for my linkage. I have a length of 1.125"x.125" tube that I cut down to roughly 4.125". I turned the down ends of the tube slightly as well as opening up the inside of the rod ends as manufacturing tolerances are horrible. Next will be getting the tube to the correct length as I only quickly mocked it up to see the feasibility.

Once the tube is the right length, I'll bore the inside to 24mm and 25mm deep so that the stock pivot bearings can be used then the rod ends lightly pressed on. I'm still trying to decide if I need dust seals, too.






Later, Doug

dust seals couldn't hurt.
some thing plastic like butter bowl lids can work well for dust seals.i have a gasket hole punch kit that i use to cut such things out with.

leon

I'm questioning my hybrid design. I think it has some shortcomings though.

If I bore the inside of the connecting tube to 24mm (the needle bearing OD) I'll have only about 0.028" wall thickness at the point where the rod end overlaps the tube. I could weld the two together for more strength but that would weld the bearing inside with the only way to service it is to cut everything apart.

I could also completely open the rod end up to 26mm or so to gain some wall thickness and machine a new tube to fit all the way through the rod end and that would allow the bearing to be inserted from the end and then weld all the way around the tube and rod end.

Any suggestions?

Later, Doug

"I could also completely open the rod end up to 26mm or so to gain some wall thickness and machine a new tube to fit all the way through the rod end and that would allow the bearing to be inserted from the end and then weld all the way around the tube and rod end."

i believe that is the way i would go.

leon

Paint scheme flows nicely. I'm diggin' it!

I got my lowering links today. Not exactly what I was expecting but I can make them work for me.

I machined the tube to accept the stock linkage bearings EXCEPT I accidentally flipped the tube around and machined too much out of the end that was a perfect fit for the bearing already. :doh: So looks like I'll have to make another tube which I count as more practice. I'm going to make a Version 2.0 but until then the links will be a prototype used for mock-up.





Later, Doug

Finished up my linkage and made sure everything played nice together and it does.





Next up is designing and fabbing the upper shock mount.

Later, Doug