Doctorot's '78 KZ1000 build

So i found some posts on here about using a master link for the cam chain. Since i know all the rollers, idlers, and everything down below is brand new I think i'm going to try this instead of tearing down the whole motor. Unless there are any objections? the only thing that worries me is if the chain fails it can do BIG damage.

If you do that use a rivet type chain and use the proper rivet tool. Ed

I'm gonna call Z1 Enterprises on monday and get the skinny but they sell the master links for the Tsubaki cam chains. I have a 124 link Tsubaki chain on the way so i wont have to use two master links. I already have a chain breaker that has very small pins for cam chains. Im gonna have my buddy come over and help me with that. He is an amazing bike mechanic so i will feel comfortable if he is looking over my shoulder when this goes down.

Wow! Just read this thread twice and love your build! Can't wait to see it finished.

Frame looks incredible! You are doing quality work Doc. Too bad about the cam chain. But not all in vain. You probably can take the engine apart and put it back together in your sleep Thats gotta be worth something.

If it were me I would install the continuous chain, I know it's time and some new gaskets but the peace of mind would be my motivation. One other thing to note is the 122 link Tsubaki chain is I believe now no longer available anywhere and would be a shame to chop it up as it has never been used, you should be able to sell it no problem. Love your build Doc.

having the engine out you can just pull the lower case without tearing the topend down.
i have ran master links in the past and wouldn't be above riviting one.
but having the engine out i would just go for the continuous one for the reason bluezbike stated.

best of luck whichever way you go.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: having the engine out you can just pull the lower case without tearing the topend down.
leon

If i just pulled the bottom case how would i get it around the roller? I dont see how you could swap chains with out a total tear down or using a master link. I don't really mind taking the time and doing it except i REALLY am dreading removing the liquid gasket from the case halves.

Pulling the bottom case means you have to split them.....I don't think it'll be such a problem getting the sealant off, I believe it just rolls right off (I would use a plexiglas chisel....I can make/send you a couple if you want). It isn't nearly as tough as getting old paper gasket crud off anywhere else. Once cases are split turn the whole motor upside down then unbolt the center cap (4 bolts) lift out the crank and there you go. I forgot to mention cams have to be out and chain loose.

Use a rivet master, do it right and you will be fine.

bluezbike wrote: Pulling the bottom case means you have to split them.....I don't think it'll be such a problem getting the sealant off, I believe it just rolls right off (I would use a plexiglas chisel....I can make/send you a couple if you want). It isn't nearly as tough as getting old paper gasket crud off anywhere else. Once cases are split turn the whole motor upside down then unbolt the center cap (4 bolts) lift out the crank and there you go. I forgot to mention cams have to be out and chain loose.

I understand what Leon was saying but the cam chain goes around the rubber roller that is held in between the cylinders and the upper case. The last two times i had to break the engine down after making an oversight in assembly, the case sealant was a PITA to remove because the engine has never been run. The gaskets lift up with no effort because they are brand new and haven't been hot. After talking to Z1 Enterprises today i am feeling a lot more comfortable about the masterlink. It is a very tight fit, and you just slightly peen the ends. There is very little lateral force on the link so it doesn't take much to peen it right. Apparently most failure comes because people over do it.

sorry vic you are completely correct.
i was slippin :pinch: .
the endless chain replacement is going to dictate a complete engine teardown.

but the way i clean sealant from surfaces is to hold the single edged razor(or preferably utility knife blade)perpendicular to the gasket surface and scrape sideways in a quick little side to side motion .this eliminates any chance of gouging and will level any high spots.
it's has always worked well for me.
i just built this little banshee stroker motor

and forgot to notch the cases to clear the extra stroke and had to separate it and clean all the yamabond that i had just used :sick: ,

leon