Doctorot's '78 KZ1000 build

Thanks guys, im just glad i finally have it back so i can keep working on it.

I like the counter sunk washer idea Leon, i think i'm gonna try and make it to the fastener store and see what they have.

Renninger wrote: Where did ya get the rpm gauge? i kinda want to get me a set for my kz1000

the gauges are from Speedhut. I asked them if they would work with a Dynatek ignition, they said yes. Word of warning though; they are made for cars, and while they claim they are water "resistant" I don't know how well they will resist water. However I took one apart and devised a scheme for waterproofing them myself for peace of mind. I should get to that soon, and when i do i will post what i do.

kk, that would be great water to isn't the big of a deal...i live in Arizona i don't even remember what rain looks likes

DoctoRot wrote: Thanks guys, im just glad i finally have it back so i can keep working on it.

I like the counter sunk washer idea Leon, i think i'm gonna try and make it to the fastener store and see what they have.

Renninger wrote: Where did ya get the rpm gauge? i kinda want to get me a set for my kz1000

the gauges are from Speedhut. I asked them if they would work with a Dynatek ignition, they said yes. Word of warning though; they are made for cars, and while they claim they are water "resistant" I don't know how well they will resist water. However I took one apart and devised a scheme for waterproofing them myself for peace of mind. I should get to that soon, and when i do i will post what i do.

just a quick update. I took your advice Leon, and got some stainless counter-sunk washers with some allen head screws. looking good. I love small details like this that no one will never notice except for me and die-hard KZ fans. Should get the other shock mount welded in this weekend, plus the rest of the bracing and some other random tabs and such.

damn straight !!!!!!!!!!!!!

that looks very nicely finished :evil: .

leon

If possible,anytime you have a pivoting or an area I call "Threads In Bearing", try to have no threads in places that can move. The threads can flatten, making for excessive play, affecting handling.

unfortunately I couldn't get to the welders house today, but i did get all the remaining braces fitted and prepped to be welded. I fit this brace, then it occurred to me that i would no longer be able to use the airbox. I was planning on using it in the fall and winter, as it rains alot here (seattle) and i plan on riding the crap outta this thing when its done, rain or shine. Should i put the brace lower, in the middle, or modify the airbox? the lower position might be in the way of the chain. the brace in this position seems like it would do alot to help chassis flex.

I wouldnt mess with air box....need to work around it.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: I wouldnt mess with air box....need to work around it.

+1

ok i had to go with a smaller diameter tube and i fit it just under the airbox, i guess you can't follow sanctuary frame bracing 100%.

On a different note, i got a killer deal on these ZRX forks. going to try and do a fork swap with custom triples and the like.


I have gotten a copy of Alibre design and have been teaching myself some 3d designing in my spare time. first up will be making an axle to accept my KZ wheel, then hopefully a triple tree to retain the stock geometry. So far this is what i got, i haven't figured out how to do threads yet, but i have only used it for a couple hours so far.

had some time to mess around in alibre tonight. here is my attempt at a top clamp, i havent added the pinch points yet. i tried to copy the KZ and ZRX clamps as close as possible while giving it some of my own flavor. The ZRX forks are 5 mm shorter than stock so i added that to the drop to maintain ride height. Im gonna post up the numbers in case anyone sees a mistake.
the geometery is as follows;
fork center to center: 206mm (stock ZRX)
offset: 60mm
drop: 23.5 (stock is about 18.5mm)
i have found this to be very entertaining, not as hard as i would have expected either. Sshould i take the time pocket the bottom? is it worth it? it will probably add cost to the machining of the part. both the KZ and ZRX clamps are pocketed.

the zrx forks use a single 10 mm pinch bolt but i have seen plenty of clamps that seem to be using 8mm or two 6mm bolts which should i use? how deep should i thread them into the clamp?

I pocket the bottoms and some tops, depends on how thick they are. I use a single 8mm bolt tapped at least 2 times diameter on gullwings and 2 bolts on the flat trees, more for appearance than a need.

Les