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23 Sep 2012 15:32 #550404 by zed1015
Snug fitting frame finally finished .
Think i've accounted for everything ?
Even had to clearance the down tubes to miss 2/3 exhaust pipes.




Hopefully got enough bracing on it.



Coil mounts and a few nooks and crannys have been sweated with braze.












Should be nice and shiny black powdercoated in a week or so.
Will have to pull my finger out and make a start on the motor now.

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23 Sep 2012 15:34 - 23 Sep 2012 16:05 #550405 by zed1015
Time to make some sense of this lot.



Ex race cases, still painted with Glyptol waiting to go in the blast cabinet


Newer and slightly tougher MK2 gearbox internals awaiting service.
Will be using the earlier 15t 1000A crank which is going off for welding at Roger uppertons this weekend.



This early Z1 cylinder head will be used after getting a mild-ish porting job.


Z1 barrels bored to 1015cc with high comp pistons.
Ran these on my Z1R for only 500 miles so the bores are like new but found one top ring was chipped somehow when i've un-boxed them.
I machined these pistons when i first got them to take CB500T rings after i couldn't find anything to fit and luckily i found a couple of sets on ebay which were a bargain £30 delivered from ......... AUSTRALIA
:blink:



Worn Idler gear rubbers have been replaced with solid billet centers.
Right hand tensioner is converted Z650 item, These have a larger dia wheel and readily takes an idler sprocket and saves buying a new, pattern or expensive Liska item :wink: ( Could do with another couple Z650 tensioner brackets so don't throw your worn out ones) .



Alloy gallery bungs have been replaced with removable grub screws for ease of cleaning.




Modified oil pressure switch now serves as cooler take off, Just need a couple of elbows to get them pointing in the right direction.

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Last edit: 23 Sep 2012 16:05 by zed1015.

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23 Sep 2012 15:35 #550406 by zed1015
Any colour you like as long as it's black!

Frame ,mounts and shock spring finally done.
Zinc chromate primed and powder coated.

Just need the crank back now and i can build and fit the bottom end,







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23 Sep 2012 15:37 #550407 by zed1015
Trying to get a little bit done each day.

Rear shock, Bandit 600 item.
Original spring which was too hard and steel preload and collet on left.
Replaced on right by softer Yam R6 spring that is slightly larger diameter so used much nicer alloy R1 preload etc to suit which also needed some Lathe adjustment to fit the fatter bandit damper.



Got that sort of classic Hagon look i think ?

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23 Sep 2012 15:39 #550408 by zed1015
A cunning plan.

Decided i could use a bit of extra length ( Oo'er :oops: ) on the front end :roll:
So had a bit of a measure and discovered that the ZX10's forks fixed top bush is 160mm from the top of the fork outer leg .




And the fork slider has a full 34 mm of unused surface above this in an uncompressed state . So i figured there's a safe 32mm of extra length i can gain without too much trouble and even less expense :D



Just a matter of extending the damper assembly (which controls fork travel) by 32mm.


A bit of a rummage turned up some old ally ZXR fork tops

And a couple of gixer srad swingarm bearing spacers which were perfect donor material for the job


A combination of turned down zxr adjuster pressed into a srad spacer



Produced the extended spring preload spacers


Next turn up the threaded damper rod extensions


On which i milled some flats

To take a spanner


Then add some longer preload rods (more donor zxr)


And screw it all together




And there you go :)




Spot the difference :wink:




And not a vacuum pump in sight :shock:

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23 Sep 2012 15:41 #550409 by zed1015
Finally got the crankshafts indexed and welded.
Top one is big pin mk2 for the 1428 and the lower is 1000A for the cafe racer.




Nothing to stop me building the engine now so time to spend an hour or two on the cases in the blasting cabinet






Then a waft over with some satin case paint.


I like to get the cases painted asap after blasting so a quick blow over with the air line then lightly preheat the cases to sweat out any moisture and they are done.
I stand the spray can in some hot water too so there isn't a heat difference between the two.
I will leave the cases to cure overnight then bake them in the oven for a tough solvent resistant finish.
Only after that will i proceed to thoroughly flush out any remaining grit and run a tap down all the threads ready for the rebuild.
If everything goes smoothly i should have the bottom end ready to drop in the frame sometime this weekend

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23 Sep 2012 15:42 #550410 by zed1015
The Missus was out all day so the perfect opportunity to bake the cases :D



Then run through EVERY thread wth the appropriate tap to remove any blasting media.
Just blowing them out with the air line won't shift it.




Next step will be a hot soapy bath,high pressure water jet through the galleries, a flush out with solvent then another stint with the air line and it should be good to go with the re-build.

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23 Sep 2012 15:44 #550412 by zed1015
Bath time.
Welding rod with cleaning cloth crimped on the end is perfect for getting down all the oil galleries and bolt holes
Grandson donated his bottle brush for the larger holes.
Rinse and repeat.




Spotless.
After another blast with the airline and flush out with solvent it's nearly ready to go .
Just need to remove the stubborn remains of the original rubbery factory sealer from the front wall



Double check i've got everything needed for assembly



Then in goes the freshly indexed and welded crank from Mr Upperton, HD camchain, slightly beefier Mk2 gearbox and new crankcase 'O'ring.



Ball bearing for oil pressure release in lower case needs a light tap with brass drift to reseat


Once the selector drum and forks are in it's time to bolt up the cases.
On disassembly i always slot the bolts into these card templates to save time rummaging for the correct length bolts later on.


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23 Sep 2012 15:45 #550413 by zed1015
Finally got the bottom end buttoned up this morning after a trip to Teds monthly meet and receiving strict instructions from Padders to " Get on with it" so here it is, on its side ready to drop the frame on.


Some three handed juggling later it's in


And bolted up with some one off stainless fasteners i made earlier.





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23 Sep 2012 15:47 - 23 Sep 2012 18:19 #550417 by zed1015
The same blast, paint, bake and soapy bath treatment for the barrels.
New wiseco circlips, front guide and rings.
These are 900 barrels bored out to 1015 with some unknown ART pistons that came with a manzano head and other ex race parts i bought around 16 years ago.
I couldn't find any rings to fit these so machined the grooves to take the closest i could find at the time which were for a Honda 500 twin :shock:
I ran them for around 500 miles on my Z1R then boxed them up when i changed to 1075 wisecos so they are barely run in.
On retrieving them from under the bench i found one top ring on number 1 piston had somehow got chipped so had to buy a full set ( 2 pistons worth ) just for the one ring. Luckily they were only 35 quid delivered from Australia :D



Another stroke of luck.
The new ring gaps drop straight in the lower end of the recommended range without any adjustment.



So on with the pistons.
I decided to spread the rest of new rings over the other pistons to equal things up.
New top rings on 1-4 and second rings on 2-3 plus one fresh oil scraper ring on each.
Placcy shopping bags are much better than rags for closing up the crankcase mouths against errant circlips etc as there's no possibility of fibers and thread getting where they shouldn't




New bottom roller and rubber blocks in there and base gasket greased both sides.
This allows it to shift and settle evenly when everything is tightened down and makes for easier removal at a later date.
Then the piston skirts are given a light coat of Graphogen assembly compound to give maximum lubrication on start up.
A little goes a long way and it sticks like shit to a blanket so i usually end up wearing more than the pistons
:oops:

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Last edit: 23 Sep 2012 18:19 by zed1015.

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23 Sep 2012 15:50 #550418 by zed1015
One more job before the barrels go on.
Something i came up with years ago that will keep the middle eight barrel studs rust free and looking good , especially usefully if re-using the old ones that have gone a bit manky and lost their plating.
The middle eight are not enclosed like the four outer ones and get the full force of the elements and even new ones won't look good for long especially if you actually use the bike.
After cleaning up the studs and giving them a coat of paint or grease, cut eight lengths of 12mm electrical heat shrink tube, 4 at 120mm and 4 at 150mm.


Slot them over the appropriate studs


And shrink them on with the heat gun making sure they sit in the crankcase recess round the bottom of the studs.
Finally trim the sleeving so the tops come just up to the bottom of the threads where the head nuts go.
Once done, the corrosion that usually builds up around the studs that makes the barrels difficult to remove later will be no more and the studs will look good for years.
In fact 20 years and still going strong on the first engine i used this on.



Now back to the barrels and apply some graphogen around the lower inch or so of the bores


And on they go.
No ring compessor for me, Just set the block at a slight angle and work the rings in one at a time across each piston.
Only possible after many many engine rebuilds
:wink:



And it's on :D waiting for the head.


Pic of the sleeved studs through the finning. Should stay looking like this for years.( But not as blurry :lol: )

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23 Sep 2012 15:51 #550420 by zed1015
Stripped a 900 head out tonight .
Original bronze guides are buggered but no surprise there so will gut it bare for blasting.
Otherwise it's a near minter.




If not immediately swapping the guides they can be removed cold to avoid heating the head too many times and risking distortion ( I will fit the new guides at the same time as baking the paint )
Simply carefully drill up the centers with progressively larger bits until the guide walls are about 1/2 mill thick which will release their 'fit' and they will tap out with very little force and no risk of wear in cylinder head.
Drill from the combustion chamber side and stop short of breaking through at the stem seal side so as to leave an internal lip to drift against which effectively pulls the remains of the guide out


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