External Top Oiler Experiment

I had to know so I took the plunge!:ohmy: I bought a total junk cylinder head to practice on. Once you drill into the end of the oil galley(s) you will notice a single oil feed hole coming up from the cylinder stud bores. The feed hole is about 3/4" in from the end of the galley castings. I bought four AN -4 bulkhead unions because one end is about 1 1/4" long. I drilled and tapped the oil galleys of head I am using for AN -4 thread(7/16x20). The tops of the cooling fins at the corners had to be relieved a bit to clear the fitting nuts. Then I took a Q-Tip and spread thread sealant in the hole to be sure the seal was in front of the feed hole. The AN bulkhead nut had to be turned round on a lathe to clear also. The pictures should be pretty clear. I am posting what I have on my flashdrive now. Other pics @ home.

Sorry, file size too big.

Posting the full size pics to the PhotoBucket link in my signature line if interested. Pics are too big to crop into 500x500:

I forgot; the two oil outlets from the engine cases were welded over and brought level with the deck.

tuxedotito wrote:

The AN bulkhead nut had to be turned round on a lathe to clear also.

Ok, call me stupid...(seriously, everyone else does:laugh: ), but how'd you get it in there after you'd shaved down the nuts?

Looks very interesting, you must keep us posted on if/how it works!

Whats the reason for it/ What does it do?

Was there a problem with oil getting to the top, or do you just want to have an external oil system?

Six inch chunk of 3/4" aluminum rod drilled and tapped to AN -4. Basically a "female" end with a handle,(how often do you get to drill a female end whenever you want to):evil: :evil: :evil:
The bulkhead unions are steel so I was less worried about scratches etc... I screwed them in with the handle I made and then used thin-jawed vice grips to hold on while I removed the "handle". Doesn't really need a ton of grunt:pinch: The main thing is getting the thread sealant in there real well before installing the unions. I used Permatex white teflon paste in a little tube.

I am doing it just for my own satisfaction with tinkering and for a perceived increase in "cool factor". I also have APE cylinder studs and they are much beefier than stock thereby reducing the useable oil passage volume as has been discussed in many other posts, and makes sense to me. The GPz1100 oil cooler bypass has a cast-in boss on the pressure switch side that I drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT. I installed a 90 deg. AN-4 to 1/8" NPT Swivel to supply the head. I am leaning towards hardline. I will post some more pics in Photobucket when I get home. Too hard to crop etc.

Why?...well, because he can! Part of the appeal of motorcycles (and hotrods) is the exposed "mechanical bits".

I like the idea,very creative thinkin

Thats goinng to look like a mean engine when you get done

Thanks for all the well wishes! I re-sized some pics and will throw them up. I have no doubts that it will work. I fret more about doing it myself trying to make it look like it came from some Super Extra Secret Custom "Shop" I already ordered some Jegs Blue/Red hardware because the steel just wasn't working for me.