TOPIC:

Condenser wires are supposedly insulated from ground by the same fiber washers that insulate the coil primary wires and point springs from ground. Would double-check the condition of the fiber washers.

If the sheath (protective covering) of the condenser wire is frayed, it may allow some unwanted conductivity to ground, which would provide the same unwanted conductivity from the points spring to ground and from the coil primary wire to ground.

The pair of condensers (assembly) includes a bracket that screws onto the backing plate, whereby the exterior metal surfaces of the condensers are grounded. The condenser wires are usually soldered to the condensers (on the back side of the mounting plate), which soldered joint should not touch the exterior metal surfaces of the condenser.

If not already done, would inspect the condenser wires to assure that (1) the solder joints aren't contacting exterior metal surface of the condenser, and (2) the wire sheaths are in good condition, not frayed, and providing good insulation from ground.

Then after all that, the condenser might be internally defective, having an internal short which is allowing an unwanted path to ground.

Would heed OMR's suggestions with regard to testing and/or replacing the condensers.

If desired, points and condensers are likely available separately, at less cost, and without needing to purchase and replace the entire mounting plate assembly.

Good Fortune!

RH Points $5.82
www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...Z+GS&item=MAM616-601

LH Points $5.82
www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...S550&item=MAM616-602

Condensers $8.75
www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...1000&item=MAM617-601

Good Fortune!

I sure would like to switch over to Dyna-S, but for now if I can spend $20 and be back in business with points I'll go that route. Wife is not happy about the money I have already spent on the bike lately. Nearly $500 in the last few months....carb holders and airbox boots were a biggie.

If new points/condenser gets me back in business then I can hold off on the Dyna-S until next year.

Interesting content about testing condenser, etc.

Click > www.dansmc.com/bat_coil_ign.htm

Hopefully, new fiber washers will come with the new points; and in the photo shown of points in Z1E's listing, it appears that they do.

Good Fortune!

Fiber washers are on there. I'm going to order the set...

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...1000&item=MAM634-611

Couple dollars less that way.

This seems way too simple to fix my problem, but we'll see. Here is a long description of my problem that has me on this search.

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/590426-19...g-down-at-wot#604401

Or the short version, I cannot use WOT settings under about 5-6K RPM or the engine bogs down. I have to roll into the throttle very slowly as the RPM's build. I can only go WOT when the revs are up over 5-6K. But it does pull hard over 6K.

Cruising at steady speeds it seems to run great, but try to get on it hard at lower RPM's and it just bogs down. I would think compression but the thing idles great, it will idle smoothly down to 500rpm when warm!

Its not the carbs, totally stock and completely clean and clear, stock airbox w/new OEM style filter, carb holders and airbox tubes new, with new clamps. Valve clearances are in spec, just did them. New correct NGK plugs, gapped to spec. Exhaust is stock.....the entire bike is stock with the exception of the petcock, the front brake master cylinder and the tires.

If the new points/condenser set fixed this, and it's possible, I'll be a happy camper. If not I'm running out of things that could be wrong. It could be the advancer too, I'm going to clean it and be sure its free before reinstalling it. Then I will confirm it's advancing correctly with a timing light.

I should know by next week when the new parts get here.

Have you checked the voltage getting to the coils? Also the Spark quality, will it jump the test gap in the service manual and be a nice blue spark?

Go after the known issues before dicking around with your carbs and such...

As depicted in the manual, Pitted points, most likely faulty condensers equates to low spark to the plugs. Thus no power.... A faulty condenser won't charge/discharge to generate the high voltage required. Breaking down especially @ high rpm would be a symptom you are mentioning.

Then add the variable where a 4 Vdc drop is a huge loss to the coils thus secondary high voltage developed for the spark plugs/ignition spark. You need to rectify (fix) this or you will be just chasing phantom problems.

Insure battery (-) to frame & engine are clean & to spec (~0 ohm resistance).

After replacing the points/condensers, clean/replace your connections (contact tarnish, oxidization, bad crimp/solder etc...), using a volt meter, insure your fully charged battery (+12Vdc +) -> fuse -> ignition switch -> engine stop switch are all to spec and not dropping Voltage/current to the coils.

If all good to spec, then adjust your points.

The verify charging circuit (stator/rectifier/regulator) are to spec...

After resolving your power issues, assuming carbs are in good shape, there will be a huge difference in how she pulls at higher rpm's.

If electrical isn't your gig, something I put together to help others a little better.
kz-electrical-theory

For 1976 KZ900 where ~ the same for KZ1000 up to 1980.



In case you need...
Again for KZ900, verify in your manual just in case.

The 4 volt drop to the coils is still happening with the points/condensers removed from the system, (green/black wires unplugged) so its not the condensers eating all that voltage.

Just for fun I put a wire running directly off the battery with just a toggle switch between the battery and the coils. Guess what....full battery voltage to the coils that way. So I think that would mean that the coils are not eating more voltage than the battery can give it?

The red/yellow connector from the harness has full battery voltage with the coils unplugged. But plug in the coils and I get the 4 volt drop. So this seems to be a problem when the system is loaded up and trying to power the coils. Does that make sense or am I way off?

Should the stock wiring harness be able to feed as much power to the coils as a direct wire straight off the battery does?

If the answer is yes then I have some checking to do. I have already taken apart and cleaned most of the connections. But that large white connector in the headlight bucket....how do you get that thing apart? It almost seems to be glued together.

Also, is there a way to take apart and clean the ignition switch? My right hand control switch is new so its probably not there but I'll check anyways.

I'm thinking I'll start at the coils and start testing backwards, looking for the spot where it drops from battery voltage to 8 volts. Hopefully that will find it.

Good Fortune!

I've had that drawing saved on my computer for about a year.

I went thru some of this when I got the bike but its time for a much more thorough pass thru. Might as well do it now while I'm waiting for parts. Is that large white connector in the headlight bucket not part of this drawing?

I got the points housing off the bike and welded up today, need to get that weld shaped back down. Another time I wish I had a rotary table for my mill.

I also found a scraping mark on the backside of the points plate where the advancer had rubbed on it! I will have to be absolutely sure its not rubbing when I get it back on. Seems strange that it would do that.

I made a big mistake! The 4 volt drop at the coils is ONLY happening when the points plate IS CONNECTED to the coils (black/green wires) and the plate is grounded and the POINTS are CLOSED.

So looks like you ya'll were correct....condensers bad and leaking to ground? New ones are due to be delivered from Z1E on Monday anyways so no problem.

Could this be causing dim lights, slow blinkers....the works? Battery voltage while running is right on what the book says, battery is new (April) and bike keeps it charged. Getting 14 volts @ 5,000 RPM w/high beam on.

I'm really hoping this is the problem.

When you see this much drop in voltage, you have the key on, bike off, and the lights on, measured across the battery compared to across the coils? How is it when you either unplug or pull the fuse to the headlight?
I would think you would blow a fuse with a short, or worse. Most likely a poor connection/ switch in your circuit, not able to handle the load applied.
Start at the battery to do your measurements for voltage drop. Work forwards, starting with the connection from the battery to the Fuse Panel, the Main Fuse, the Ignition Switch, and so on.