TOPIC:

FaultedGeologist wrote:

missionkz wrote: Are you using the stock fuel tank and existing fuel lines, with at least a half gallon of fuel in it? Or like me with single tube about the same length, holding it vertical to get the same aprox "head pressure" as a gas tank and filling it with a funnel, etc.

I have always wondered if this is the cause of my float issues. I built a stand for my Keihin 34 carbs, then created a page for it in the Tools area.

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/604016-carb-h...-float-levels#744214

kaw-a-holic wrote: use one of these, worth every penny: www.z1enterprises.com/product/ZSM01-208

I don't understand how that $12 for one tube linked above from Z1 would work. Where would the threads go, and why $12 each? Wouldn't you want 4 or 2 based on your # cylinders? I made the ones linked to in my tools post for a couple bone$.

Those was before I realized which carbs he had. Older VMs only have a drain plug. The tool post screws in in place of the drain plug.

Thanks fellas, this is all really helpful. Apparently I'm just not very good at this part or these carbs are just super finicky. It seems like any adjustment I make puts the fuel level to either extreme either too rich so it's pouring out the air jet or too lean so that the clear tube barely gets any fuel.

The tang needs to be level. Bend the arms so it's close then the tangs are for fine adjustments.
Steve

Sounds good, the PO had installed pods and got rid of the airbox. Should I put slightly more fuel in the bowls to account for this?

NO it needs to be rejetted.
Steve

So it looks like some of my overflow tubes are cracked badly enough for fluid to leak through. Would the cracks give me false readings on the clear tube test?

They could. Try soldering them.
Steve

fatcat70 wrote: So it looks like some of my overflow tubes are cracked badly enough for fluid to leak through. Would the cracks give me false readings on the clear tube test?

You mean the vertical standpipe inside the bowl, correct? Yes, if they are cracked, and leak, you will never be able to set the fuel level properly. I haven't had much luck with soldering brass parts in bowls. I can solder the part perfectly, but another crack just shows up soon after. The culprit is probably alcohol in the gasoline. This was never a common problem until about 15 years ago.

Some people reported luck with sliding a sleeve over it.

You can buy fractional inch brass tubing at hobby stores. And usually you can even find metric tubing online. Cut it to the same length, Slide the sleeve over it and solder it. It needs to be sealed at the bottom, and only really at the bottom, to work, but that is a dangerous place to heat the brass because it could loosen the pipe in the bowl. Just be careful.

I wonder if there is a no-heat solution you could use, like a gasoline/alcohol proof epoxy?

Some have even reported success at using heat-shrink plastic tubing. But I don't know if that is a viable long-term solution.

Perhaps take it along on a visit to the friendly local radiator repair shop and inquire as to the possibility of getting a light application of Red-Kote to the cracked area of the overflow tube, for maybe a few bucks or a couple of beers.

Or just purchase a quart of Red-Kote.

I'm uncertain as to whether or not Por-15 might withstand constant submersion in gasoline

The epoxy type products offered for fuel tank leak repair might work to seal the crack in an overflow tube, but are usually in a putty form that's more cumbersome to apply (such as Permatex's offering for fuel tank repair).

When properly applied , JBWeld has proven long term reliability while continuously submerged in gasoline. It has been used to make lasting repair of broken float towers.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: When properly applied , JBWeld has proven long term reliability while continuously submerged in gasoline. It has been used to make lasting repair of broken float towers.
Good Fortune!

Would someone please explain "properly applied "?

"Properly applied" means in strict accordance with the instructions provided by the product supplier.

For example, "improperly applied" could include a host of application screw-ups, such as out-lived shelf-life, insufficient mixing, excessive time lapse between mixing and application, preparation/cleanliness of part being repaired, insufficient set-up/drying time allowed, improper mixing ratio, and so on.

Good Fortune!

I've had no luck with JB Weld and gas.
Steve