TOPIC:

I believe its just because the bike is on its centerstand and resting on the front wheel with the back wheel off the ground. So everything is kicked slightly forward like this. I could probably stick a wood block under the front wheel to level it out a bit

A little bit won't hurt.
Steve

Patton wrote:

Dirtyhands wrote: . . . fuel consumption is terrible ( maybe 20mpg) . . . .

As 29's have no overflow circuit. if not already done, would check for possibility of gasoline intrusion into the crankcase, to rule out a potentially disastrous condition.

Good Fortune!

Dirtyhands wrote: . . .gas in the oil. I"m going to do an oil change pronto but wonder what the "potentially disaster condition" would be.

potentially disastrous condition would include engine seizure due to inadequate lubrication resulting from the oil inside the crankcase having been diluted with raw gasoline.

Good Fortune!

Also, if one or both cylinders are full of fuel and you try to start it, bent rods and other expensive bits can result.

Here's where I'm currently at with all this

- I changed the oil and replaced the oil filter

- I Removed and checked the coils with a cheapo multimeter I have. I got identical readings from both coils which was 3.01 ohm primary and 13000 secondary. These are slightly lower numbers than I expected out of new 3 ohm Dyna coils but they're consistent and throw blue spark.

- i checked and reshimmed the valves. After reading another thread in this forum I decided to open up the clearance on most of my valves to the wider side of the allowable range since they were previously on the tighter side and I have been using the Clymer method to measure. The intake valve on problem cylinder #4 was even a bit tighter than spec shy of .10. Now all valves are set at either side of .15

- I checked the needle jets on the carbs and found they were all the same and clean but they are size 4 and it seems the standard for these carbs is 6. Are 4's acceptable or should I order 6's

- I've been trying to nail down the float heights before I go any further as I don't want to taint the oil again. I'm finding that I'm having trouble getting the level to drop any lower than 2.5mm from the gasket surface. If I bend the tang any more the fuel won't flow at all and I've played with pushing up or pulling down on the floats themselves. It doesn't seem to want to go past the gasket surface on any of the carbs but I wonder if this can change while the bike is running. Acceptable range I'm finding on the forum seems to be 2.5-4.5mm from the gasket surface but what is optimal? When I inspected the valve needles I notice a ring around the point were it goes into the seat. Is this indicative that the needle/seats are worn? I may order some new ones just for the peace of mind.

I don't recall whether or not it's possible to install a 29 smoothbore float assembly upside down, but might be worth checking.

Good Fortune!

Yeah they can be put in upside down. Clear tube is the only way to get them right. Z1E has a tool. I made my own.
Steve

I've been using the clear tube tool from Z1. The floats are installed with the soldered tabs facing the bowl.

Smooth bore's don't have a ood idle system plus running them on a small motor you will get a weak idle signal
and will need a pilot jet way bigger then you think. Sudco list's a 25 pilot and a 125 main as a starting point for a 750 cc motor.

Mine on my 810cc GPz750 motor I'm at a 22.5 pilot and 125 main clip in the middle slot and I get some poping on decell
if I pull the baffle.

I finally figured out what was going on with my float levels and I'm kind of embarrassed it took me as long as it did. Almost all the sidewalls on the brass floats were collapsed in and concave. I'm not sure how this happened but it's how I received them from the P.O. and I thought it was just how they looked until now.After I bought all new float valves /needles and was still getting too much fuel in some of the carbs (even with the tangs maxed out) I too a closer look at the floats themselves

Once I figured out that the floats were crushed I set out to try and fix em. I used a soldering gun to melt off the little plug on the inner wall and I shot some air at the opening with my air compressor. Sure enough they plumped up and after soldering the plugs back look good as new. After I checked them for any leaks I installed them, bench set them to 23mm and tested the fuel levels with the clear tube method. They're all at about 4mm below the gasket surface now. Here are some pictures of before and after the surgery.

Thank you Zukdave I switched over to a 125 main and 25 pilot. I'll see how it goes tomorrow before work

Dirtyhands wrote: . . . tested the fuel levels with the clear tube method. They're all at about 4mm below the gasket surface now . . . .

Well Done!

Good Fortune!