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kaw-a-holic wrote: Where did you get that cap for the clear tube method?

Z1 Enterprises...less-pricey combined with another purchase.
Part number: ZSM-VM29FT

retterath wrote:
I also discovered that my JB weld float tower repair is not going to work. I tried the "fuel proof" JB weld first and it didn't hold. I didn't break them, by the way.

Any suggestions?

Just two cents, but I'd dowel it with a pin at the joint, combined with a rigid-set bonding material that will not be affected by fuel.

Added note: I see where your fuel level has been maintained by observing the overflow tube in the bowl, at the upper-right in your pic. The fuel residue-line confirms the clear-tube test level found in my carbs is correct, based on the Mikuni float level setting instructions.
This seems like a good topic for a Mikuni tech (or expert) to pipe-in on.

That's what I was thinking. Have to strip it completely to weld.
Steve

baldy110 wrote: I set all mine at about 2mm below the float bowl. I just used the same specs as for the BS34. When I set mine even with the float bowl the carbs would leak when the bike was on it's side stand.. I have never had a running issue related to the fuel level since I set them, from
idle to 130 mph

Was the float adjustment tang uniquely bent to achieve that setting?
retterath suggested having a problem attempting that. See his post #723957

I have reset to 19mm, happy medium? Will have to do a wet test tomorrow, I've absorbed enough gasoline for one day. You can see in the pic how far I had to bend the tangs to get the level that low.

For the tower, I carefully drilled through and pressed in a piece of wire. Will it hold? I dunno, but it definitely won't go all gooey like the JB weld.

I would use a roll pin. It drives in tight just like on your gas cap.
Steve

retterath wrote: I have reset to 19mm, happy medium? Will have to do a wet test tomorrow, I've absorbed enough gasoline for one day. You can see in the pic how far I had to bend the tangs to get the level that low.

For the tower, I carefully drilled through and pressed in a piece of wire. Will it hold? I dunno, but it definitely won't go all gooey like the JB weld.

Having the carbs jigged-up (off the bike) definitely makes the process easier, and I know what you mean about the fingers and gasoline.
To minimize that problem, I modified my plugs so the bowls can drain without having to be completely removed. A little gas gets left in the cap and on a couple fingers, but not the hands!

swest wrote: I would use a roll pin. It drives in tight just like on your gas cap.
Steve

This is not a job best-done with a hand-drill and old drill bit. This repair would require extreme care and be best-performed on a quality drill press, with the carbs fixed properly in a jig. No guessing for results, because you will only get one shot to get it right, and must hit the bulls eye in the center.

Actually, I used a hand drill and a brand new bit. Veeeeeeeeeery slowly. Carefully pressed a precision machined bit of piano wire in. Voila! Good enough for who it's for.

I did price new used carb bodies first. And a new rack of carbs.

retterath wrote: Actually, I used a hand drill and a brand new bit. Veeeeeeeeeery slowly. Carefully pressed a precision machined bit of piano wire in. Voila! Good enough for who it's for.

I did price new used carb bodies first. And a new rack of carbs.

Steady and confident, even with the pressure of a potential fubar.
Yo mamma better get a hug and flowers today.