TOPIC:

swest wrote: I'd set a reference point then set them all at that point with the clear tube test. Measuring them is like shooting in the dark.
Steve

That is exactly what I did, based on the 17mm spec instructions in the Mikuni tuning guide. The levels are all within 0.5mm of each other.
Should I ignore the fact that all the levels are 4mm-5mm above the top of the bowls, instead of below them, and assume that they are correctly set that way?
If so, then that means the "clear-tube method" instructions are either incorrect, or not applicable to the RS series carbs, because those instructions specify the level needs to be 3mm below the bowl tops.

Hence my current state of flummification.

Mik doesn't list the CT test for my VM's ether. I set them on the bench then make them even with the test.
Steve

swest wrote: Mik doesn't list the CT test for my VM's ether. I set them on the bench then make them even with the test.
Steve

I'll go with that for now, and take my butt fishing...

In the mean time, everyone please argue the point, and I'll catch up again later.

Last page of PDF in link verifies the 17mm setting. Ed

mototh.com/files/other/carburetors/Mikuni-rs-manual.pdf

Davido,
I set mine @ 14mm to get them to stop pissing all over the floor on the side stand. Again, these are RACING carbs. Race bikes (dedicated race bikes) do not use side stands. When I had mine set to 17mm on the center stand they were fine. If I had the clear tube tool you ordered I would give you the info. I had my RS carbs off 10 times before I set them at 19mm. RS manual states the carbs are too be held at an angle in which the float tab just touches the float needle.

I forgot to mention. At 19mm, running WOT, hit 115 MPH I did not run out of fuel in the bowls.
I am running a Pingel high flow fuel petcock.

kaw-a-holic wrote: I forgot to mention. At 19mm, running WOT, hit 115 MPH I did not run out of fuel in the bowls.
I am running a Pingel high flow fuel petcock.

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What gear and RPMS at WOT?

5th gear 8K. I just changed the rear sprocket from a 42 to a 40. I am running a 530 chain with a 17T front. Will see how it runs tomorrow.

I set all mine at about 2mm below the float bowl. I just used the same specs as for the BS34. When I set mine even with the float bowl the carbs would leak when the bike was on it's side stand.. I have never had a running issue related to the fuel level since I set them, from
idle to 130 mph

I set my 33's like I did with my 28's. No overflow or pump.
Steve

This is where I end up with the float set at 17mm. If i crank them down to get the fuel level as low as the instructions say, the tang on the float hits the seat first, and flow never shuts off.
Maybe 17mm is where it needs to be?

I also discovered that my JB weld float tower repair is not going to work. I tried the "fuel proof" JB weld first and it didn't hold. I didn't break them, by the way.




Any suggestions?

daveo wrote: Bought the tool...

Used the tool...but

All four are the same, 4mm - 5mm above the bowl mating surface. So, what's the deal?
I followed the owners manual procedure and carefully set the four floats to 17mm with the carbs upside-down...and this is what I get?
After thinking about it, maybe its supposed to be like that, since this set of carbs has a pump that squirts fuel into the bore, and the pump bowl gasket is cut next to the plunger...hmmm. Is that where the fuel feeds into the pump system, and if so then I think the fuel level needs to be above the bowl surface rather than below it?

Then what about the overflow tube? Fuel enters it at 6.5mm +/- above the top of the bowl, so I've got about 2mm to spare with the levels as-checked.

If it is supposed to be this way, then I'm rock'n baby! Otherwise...

Where did you get that cap for the clear tube method?