TOPIC:

I set all mine at about 2mm below the float bowl. I just used the same specs as for the BS34. When I set mine even with the float bowl the carbs would leak when the bike was on it's side stand.. I have never had a running issue related to the fuel level since I set them, from
idle to 130 mph

I set my 33's like I did with my 28's. No overflow or pump.
Steve

This is where I end up with the float set at 17mm. If i crank them down to get the fuel level as low as the instructions say, the tang on the float hits the seat first, and flow never shuts off.
Maybe 17mm is where it needs to be?

I also discovered that my JB weld float tower repair is not going to work. I tried the "fuel proof" JB weld first and it didn't hold. I didn't break them, by the way.




Any suggestions?

daveo wrote: Bought the tool...

Used the tool...but

All four are the same, 4mm - 5mm above the bowl mating surface. So, what's the deal?
I followed the owners manual procedure and carefully set the four floats to 17mm with the carbs upside-down...and this is what I get?
After thinking about it, maybe its supposed to be like that, since this set of carbs has a pump that squirts fuel into the bore, and the pump bowl gasket is cut next to the plunger...hmmm. Is that where the fuel feeds into the pump system, and if so then I think the fuel level needs to be above the bowl surface rather than below it?

Then what about the overflow tube? Fuel enters it at 6.5mm +/- above the top of the bowl, so I've got about 2mm to spare with the levels as-checked.

If it is supposed to be this way, then I'm rock'n baby! Otherwise...

Where did you get that cap for the clear tube method?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

kaw-a-holic wrote: Where did you get that cap for the clear tube method?

Z1 Enterprises...less-pricey combined with another purchase.
Part number: ZSM-VM29FT

retterath wrote:
I also discovered that my JB weld float tower repair is not going to work. I tried the "fuel proof" JB weld first and it didn't hold. I didn't break them, by the way.

Any suggestions?

Just two cents, but I'd dowel it with a pin at the joint, combined with a rigid-set bonding material that will not be affected by fuel.

Added note: I see where your fuel level has been maintained by observing the overflow tube in the bowl, at the upper-right in your pic. The fuel residue-line confirms the clear-tube test level found in my carbs is correct, based on the Mikuni float level setting instructions.
This seems like a good topic for a Mikuni tech (or expert) to pipe-in on.

That's what I was thinking. Have to strip it completely to weld.
Steve

baldy110 wrote: I set all mine at about 2mm below the float bowl. I just used the same specs as for the BS34. When I set mine even with the float bowl the carbs would leak when the bike was on it's side stand.. I have never had a running issue related to the fuel level since I set them, from
idle to 130 mph

Was the float adjustment tang uniquely bent to achieve that setting?
retterath suggested having a problem attempting that. See his post #723957

I have reset to 19mm, happy medium? Will have to do a wet test tomorrow, I've absorbed enough gasoline for one day. You can see in the pic how far I had to bend the tangs to get the level that low.

For the tower, I carefully drilled through and pressed in a piece of wire. Will it hold? I dunno, but it definitely won't go all gooey like the JB weld.

I would use a roll pin. It drives in tight just like on your gas cap.
Steve

retterath wrote: I have reset to 19mm, happy medium? Will have to do a wet test tomorrow, I've absorbed enough gasoline for one day. You can see in the pic how far I had to bend the tangs to get the level that low.

For the tower, I carefully drilled through and pressed in a piece of wire. Will it hold? I dunno, but it definitely won't go all gooey like the JB weld.

Having the carbs jigged-up (off the bike) definitely makes the process easier, and I know what you mean about the fingers and gasoline.
To minimize that problem, I modified my plugs so the bowls can drain without having to be completely removed. A little gas gets left in the cap and on a couple fingers, but not the hands!