TOPIC:

This is my first post in a tech forum and I am new to KZR, so any extra info you guys need to help me figure out whats wrong, just let me know! Sorry this is long. Ill probably go overboard with the info since I often read *need more info for long distance support* kind of thing. I'm not a mechanic but I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and a quick study so bring what you got!

The bike: (can't figure out how to post an image within the post... so its attached.)
Its a Kz700 I purchased this summer as a project bike. It didn't run due to what the guy called "electrical gremlins" but it turned over when I got it home and checked all the connections.

*relevant work already done* I replaced the cylinder block gasket, the head and head cover gasket (good compression), and replaced the carb holders and have ben through the carbs with compressed air and cleaner. The bike didn't come with a stock air box so I ordered a set of pods and jetted it. Shorty high flow mufflers were put on the stock headers.

Starting it up for the first time was glorious! My first ride was to the Lowes and taco bell around the corner. I didn't care where I was going as long as I was going there on two wheels! It ran well, no leaks, great throttle response all the pilot and main jet systems. no laggs etc.

The Bad - Rejoicing was short lived. Rode if for about 3 days before the poo hit the fan. I was warming it up while it was parked on a sidewalk apparently slopped a tiny bit. I watched as the thing just rolled over on its side (left) and I was just far enough away to not e able to do anything about it. Bike shut off on its own (hopefully only due to fuel not getting to the jets but still not good...)

So, after the dainty, not so graceful rollover, I can't get the thing to idle without the choke . When I rev the bike the RPM says high and if I try to keep the engine running by turning in on the carb idle adjustment until it runs smoothly, it will rev up on its own until I shut it down. I've tried adjusting the pilot screws anywhere form 1.5 to 3.5 turns out, Ive rechecked carb boots, sprayed the boots with wd40 and found no leaks, Ive been through the carbs 3 times making sure they didn't suck debris or anything that could have been in the float bowls. Im currently checking camshaft lobe clearances (intake side is perfect, #1 exhaust is not within spec and a new shim is ordered). I even bought synch gauges to synch the carbs and they are pretty damn close (though I am doing this just before the engine is warm enough to start acting up).

What am I missing? It ran well, turned over (about 30-40degrees past horizontal), ??? I keep hearing how an intake leak or a timing issue is usually the culprit but Im not sure what else to check on the intake. Cant be timing (CDI controlled and ran well before the tip-over) and I don't think Ive missed anything in he carbs.

Added note - I replaced the coils yesterday since the #1-4 OEM coil decided to go out in the midst of all this. Im now firing on all four but it didn't help the revving situation. (thinking maybe there was a vacuum issue caused by 1&4 being down but I don't think this is the case.)

Whew... sorry that was long. Trying to prevent the usual 5 posts of the usual questions. Any info, questions, criticism is helpful!!!

Images didn't attach

First is first ride



second is when purchased



current state (replacing wheel bearings at the moment as well...)

one more time...

Sounds like the spill over caused an air or vacuum leak. Hopefully, nothing broke, just came loose. Start your bike then slowly spray carb cleaner around the carbs, air box and boots both air box and head side. If the revs drop or the the engine dies you've found your leak.

Got the bike as stable as I could before it got warm and tried that.. No change in rpm. I just changed all vacuum lines just in case. As it stands, carbs 1&2 and 3&4 vacuum ports are linked together. Is this mandatory or can they be capped individually?

I don`t think linking the vacuum ports is a good idea.
The carbs will affect each other that way.
Cap off the vacuum ports.

How long was the bike tipped over?
If only a few moments, I doubt any gas got into the cylinders, then down into the crankcase.
Might want to check the oil for gas, and change the oil if necessary.

rstnick wrote: ....Cap off the vacuum ports...

+1 I don't know who linked those like that, but it was a mistake. Cap them. Ed

I don`t think linking the vacuum ports is a good idea.
The carbs will affect each other that way.

I think that is the idea, to equalise manifold depression across all four, at all rpm ranges. In reality it is most noticeable if carbs are badly out of synch. I do it on all of mine.

It may work for you, but in general it is not a good idea. See www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/e...gories/86-bs-connect for image that shows how they should be. WG is not stranger to carbs, so if he shows them capped ....... Ed

Thanks for the info. The PO had the vacuum set up like that so I just left it. Ill cap it and see what happens.

It was probably on its side for less than 3 seconds. I was close enough to touch it as it went over but not close enough to catch it. No fuel in the oil that I can see. Ive only run it a couple times since getting the top end back on and planned to change it again in the next week or so away.

At worst a waste of 1 m of tube worth £2,

I can't really see any downsides to it, assuming it is correct spec and a good push fit over the vac take offs..

Wired George was a good member here, all the years I was lurking before signing up. I disagree with his ignition relay mod -but it works, just I'd prefer to deal with the root cause of volt drop.

Generally in most fields, from music to mechanics, the 'pros' who do it for a job are best. Banning certain traders from here was such a goofy decision and at great detriment to the forum imo..

Check actual fuel levels, there could be a stuck needle or float because of the roll over.